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Board and Batten Bedroom Accent Wall

If you have been following the blog, then you know we are expecting our 3rd child! After an exhausting back and forth we ultimately decided to create a Board and Batten accent wall in the nursery.

Recently, we decided to make over all of the kids bedrooms. For my oldest son’s room we created an amazing Wooden Slat Wall.

Wooden Slat Wall

For my other son, we created a Shiplap Wall while keeping his Americana themed room decor.

Americana Shiplap Room

For the babies room, I wanted to do an accent wall as well. I decided on Board and Batten after exhausting several other options. Originally, I thought I would do a wall of symmetrical squares but soon realized it would be lost with the daybed I was planning on putting in the room. Board and Batten was the perfect fit to add a nice accent wall without compromising on style and design.

Materials:

  • (5) Primed 1x4x12 MDF boards
  • (1) Primed 1x2x8 MDF Board (Window Trim)
  • 1.5″ brad finishing nails
  • Nail Gun
  • Caulk
  • Wood Filler
  • Paint
  • Miter Saw

This entire project cost less than $100 which is amazingly awesome for my budget! I used primed MDF as opposed to real wood because it is cheaper and since we are painting and not staining it, nobody will know the difference!

Creating the Board and Batten Wall

I measured the wall to determined where I would place all of the vertical boards to ensure there was even spacing between them. Once determining the vertical board placement, I cut down 3 of the 12 foot MDF boards to create the edger. I did 45 degree angle cuts on all 3 of the boards so they would line up seamlessly. I attached the boards to the wall using my nail gun and 1.5″ brad nails.

Once, the edger was in place, I cut down 2 of the 12 foot MDF boards and attached them to the wall vertically.

Around the window, I created a small trim piece so it would connect with the board and batten seamlessly. To create the trim, I cut down the 1x2x8 MDF board using a 45 degree angle cut and attached them around the window with the nail gun.

Window Trim with Vertical Boards in Place

Using scrap pieces from the project, I added my last vertical board pieces that bisected the window.

Once all of the vertical board pieces were in place, I determined where I wanted to run my horizontal board. Using scrap pieces from my previous cuts, I added a horizontal board towards the top of the wall in line with the top of the window.

Horizontal and Vertical Boards in Place

After all of the boards were in place, I caulked all of the board edges. I wood filled all of the holes and seams where the vertical and horizontal boards met. Once everything was dry, I lightly sanded down the wood filler.

To make my life easier, I decided to paint the board and batten wall the same color as the existing wall. This not only saved me on cost it also saved me a lot of time!

While we are still awaiting the arrival of the crib for the nursery, we have been decorating the remainder of the room in preparation!

Room Decor

I purchased the Taylor and Olive Contemporary Fabric Daybed with Trundle in Beige from Overstock on sale for $285.77. A daybed was placed in the nursery for functionality. The master bedroom is downstairs in our house, so if I need to be near the baby’s room for an extended period of time I wanted a place to rest! It doubles as a bed for the baby as he gets older, so its a win win!

The mattress was purchased from Home Depot! I found a great deal on the Zinus Green Tea 8 inch Memory Foam Mattress through Home Depot for $146.24 with free delivery. I only purchased one mattress, we will be using the trundle section of the bed as extra storage for now.

The bedding was a set from Target and it included the blanket and accent pillows.

The accent/storage table is a Hearth and Hand Bookcase I purchased on sale from Target for $109.99. Oddly enough, the art work we used was already in the bedroom from when it was our guest bedroom. We received the art work for free from one of our neighbors!

The olive tree was also purchased on sale at Target for $75, it is the 75″ Artificial Sparse Olive Tree in Pot by Studio Mcgee.

Always keep your eyes open for great deals through Target. Target often has discounts on some of my favorite brands such as Hearth and Hand, Studio McGee and Opal House.

Finally, I located an adorable wicker accent table with removable top at Goodwill! I will find a lamp that fits in with the room to place on top of it. Always check Goodwill for cute, cheap, vintage finds!

I hope you love the baby’s room as much as we do. We will continue to fill his room as we anxiously await his arrival!

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Wooden Slat Wall Bedroom Makeover

With the new baby just around the corner it was time to update our oldest son’s bedroom. I wanted to do a single wall treatment behind his bed since we did an accent wall in his brother’s Shiplap Bedroom Makeover. Wood prices have sky rocketed lately, so I needed to find a project that fit our style without breaking the budget. I fell in love with the Wooden Slat Wall look. I wanted to create a wooden slat wall that looked great but did not cost an arm and a leg. Follow me on my oldest son’s bedroom makeover journey!

Wooden Slat Wall Supplies

We updated the bed in the room from a double to a queen. Since the wood was running behind the bed frame, I measured the width of the bed to calculate how many wood pieces I would need to complete the project.

The walls in our house are very tall! They are approximately twelve feet tall but since we have a baseboard in place the wall distance we needed to cover was just over 11 feet. 12 foot pine wood 1×2 boards are super expensive. There is no way I could afford to complete this project with 12 foot boards. I decided to purchase 6 foot 1×2 Select Pine boards to complete the wood slat wall. In order to make the boards work in the space, I ran 6 foot boards vertically. I cut down the remainder of the 6 foot boards I purchased and ran them horizontally until I reached the baseboard. Not only did this save me money, it added a lovely design element to the space.

I ended up purchasing 50, 1″x2″x6′ Select Pine Boards from Home Depot for a total price of $250. The other items I needed to complete the project was 1.5 inch brad nails, pine wood filler, a brad nail gun, a level, sand paper, and a spacer; all of which I had on hand at home.

Constructing the Slat Wall

Using a level, I placed the first 6 foot wood board vertically on the wall by nailing it into the wall studs with a brad nailer. After the first board was up, I used a piece of scrap wood as a spacer and hung the remaining vertical wood boards.

Wooden Slat Wall being hung with wood spacer

The space between the boards is a personal preference. I chose to make the space smaller because that is the look I was trying to achieve. A larger space would cut down on the amount of wood used in the project. Ultimately the decision on spacing comes down to budget and design.

Vertical Wooden Slats Installed

Once all of the vertical wood slats were installed, I cut down the remaining boards to the correct size. The remaining boards were attached to the wall horizontally using the same spacing and technique.

Horizontal and Vertical Boards in Place

After the boards were in place, I filled all of the nail holes with pine wood filler. Once the wood filler was dried, I lightly sanded it down.

The best part of this project is there is no painting or staining! I chose to leave the pine natural because I loved the way it looked as is. This was a super simple one day wall transformation!

Finishing Touches and Accessories

Along with the new queen bed, I purchased natural wood nightstands for the room. I purchased the nightstands from Hobby Lobby for $89.59 each.

Since the nightstands were small, I wanted to add lighting without having to take up space on the bed tables. Wireless sconces seemed like the best choice to dress up the space. I purchased a two pack of sconces from Amazon for $39.99.

Sconces

I added a wireless sconce above each nightstand. Check back later for my next blog post where I will cover creating and installing wireless sconces!

Sconce
Completed Look

I found the perfect picture from Target to add to this space. The black and white photo of a Highland Cow was not only adorable but the frame matched the wood tones in our room.

New Picture for this New Room!

This room turned out better than any of us could have imagined. The Wooden Slat Wall project was super simple to create and made a huge impact on our space. Check back later for our next bedroom makeover, the new babies room!

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Shiplap Bedroom Makeover

Our family is going through a big big change! We are quickly approaching the birth of our third son, yikes! Before our new bundle arrives, we have decided to completely redo both of the older boys rooms. Our youngest son loves shiplap! Last year, we added shiplap to the entire upstairs living room and hallway areas. After the completion of our DIY Vertical Shiplap project, my son insisted on having the same thing in his room! We decided to go a slightly different direction with the vertical shiplap in our sons room. Here is our journey from little boys bedroom to big brother room!

Before Bedroom

The bedroom before was thrown together with items we had on hand from our other house. We used our Cricut to make some red and blue stars for his wall. I wanted to change his space so he could have something that he could grow into. Shiplap seemed like the right fit for this space!

Design and Budget

Wood is super expensive right now. While I would have loved to do an entire room full of shiplap, it simply wasn’t in the budget. A focus wall behind his bed seemed like the most logical, budget friendly choice.

The ceilings in our house are very tall. The longer the wood the more expensive the pieces are. To save some money on this project, I decided to purchase 8 foot shiplap boards and use a thicker piece of wood to edge the space difference between the top of the shiplap and the ceiling. For the wall edger, I purchased three 1-in x 8-in x 12-ft Square primed pine boards from Lowes. Luckily, I had some leftover shiplap on hand from recent projects. I ended up only needing to purchase 15 8-Foot shiplap boards.

Wayfair had an awesome yearly sale where I was able to find and purchase an amazing bed frame. I utilized the existing Full mattress and transferred it over to the new bedframe. The bed frame we chose was the Aadvik Tufted Upholstered Low Profile Standard Bed by Greyleigh in blue and we paid $147.82 for it.

Aadvik Tufted Upholstered Low Profile Standard Bed by Greyleigh

In order to add more storage to the room, I purchased two large nightstands from Target to place on either side of the new bed. I scored these Mixed Material 3 Drawer Nightstands by Room Essentials on Target clearance for $60 each. While it took me forever to put these nightstands together, it was well worth the time for how great they make the space look.

Room Essentials Nightstands From Target

We went back and forth on the color of the shiplap wall, but ultimately I ended up using white for a number of reasons. The first reason for using white paint was we already had it on hand so we didn’t need to add paint to our budget. Second, I wanted to keep the hanging American Flag banners on the ceilings, so any other color would have clashed with that design choice.

Starting the Shiplap Wall

First, I attached all of the 12 foot edger boards to the top and sides of the focal wall using 1.5 inch brad nails.

Top Edger Board in Place

Once all of the edger boards were in place, I started adding the 8 foot shiplap boards to the wall. I started the first shiplap board in the center of the wall to ensure the layout would be visually even. All of the shiplap pieces were attached to the wall using my nail gun and 1.5 inch brad nails. After all of the shiplap pieces were in place, I caulked all of the edges and filled all of the nail holes with wood filler. Next, I lightly sanded the boards to remove any excess wood filler.

The shiplap wall pre paint!

Finally, I painted the shiplap wall using a foam roller brush as well as a smaller angled brush to ensure the wall was fully covered. I only needed to use one coat of paint because the boards were pre primed.

Finishing Touches

Once the wall was complete, I brought in all of the furniture and accessories I purchased for the room.

My son’s big brother bedroom is complete! Everyone is so happy with how this turned out. Our next project will be my oldest son’s bedroom makeover, make sure you keep your eyes peeled for that upcoming post!

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Bifold Pantry Door Makeover

The door that was installed on my pantry when we purchased the house swung inward, which made utilizing the pantry difficult. I toyed with the idea of a barn door, however, the pantry is in the mudroom and it would be difficult for the kids to operate. The only other solution was to install double doors that swung outward. Antique farmhouse doors were my dream; however, they are super expensive! I wanted an antique farmhouse door look but within my minimal budget. Follow me on my Bifold Pantry Door Makeover.

My ideal Pantry Door Inspiration

Finding The Perfect Bifold Pantry Door Without Breaking the Bank

I spent a lot of time searching the internet for the perfect Bifold Door. Bifold Doors are generally used for closets. They are doors that are connected together by a hinge that accordion open and close. Originally, I wanted a Bifold Door with glass because I really loved the look of an antique glass door. However, I couldn’t find a bifold door with glass that fit my doorframe size and my budget.

The doors in my house are impossibly tall which made finding an affordable bifold door tricky. Randomly, I found the best deal at Amazon. I purchased the 6-Panel Solid Wood 96×30 Bifold Door for $270.

This is the wood Bifold Door Purchased from Amazon

The best part of buying the Bifold Doors from Amazon was the free Prime Shipping. The doors took two weeks to arrive, but the price was worth the wait.

Prepping the Bifold Pantry Doors for Installation

First, I separated the doors by removing the hinges that connected the doors together. I lightly sanded the front and back of both doors. I lightly stained the front and backs of the doors with Weathered Oak Stain by Minwax.

Weathered Oak Stain by Minwax

This was the same stain I used for my faux beam in the entryway to the mudroom.

Faux Beam with Weathered Oak Stain and Original Pantry Door

Generally, when you install a new door swinging in a new direction you have to do a lot of prep work on the door for the hinges. The best part of this project is I did NOT have to alter the door to install new hinges!

I purchased Non-Mortise Hinges from Home Depot. Due to the height of the Bifold Door, each door required 4 Non-Mortise Hinges.

Installing The Doors

Installing Non-Mortise Hinge Doors requires two people. First, I attached the hinges to the door. Next, I had my husband hold the first door up to the correct height while I screwed the hinges directly into the existing door jam. Then, we attached the second door the same way as the first.

First Door Attached to the Frame with Non-Mortise Hinges
Testing the Door to Make Sure it Closes Properly
Both Doors Installed

After the installation of the second door, I realized there was a slight gap between the doors. My husband said the gap was fine; however, I wanted the door to look professional. I purchased a wood Astragal to bridge the gap in the door. The Astragal had to be special ordered from Home Depot so while I waited for that I got to work on the door hardware.

Door Hardware

Keeping with the farmhouse look, I decided to purchase Cremone Bolt hardware for the doors. The hardware was purchased from Amazon because that is where I could find the hardware at the best price. I did not have to alter the door to install the hardware because I decided to use magnetic closure for the doors to make my life easier. The door handles are considered dummy doorhandles and are just used to pull them open and closed.

Cremone Bolt Iron Hardware for 9′ Doors

Installing the Cremone Bolt Hardware required two people. The hardware was slightly too long for my doors. Using the metal blade on my table saw, I cut down the hardware slightly for each door. After getting the hardware in place, I attached magnetic closure locks to the top of the frame and the top of each door.

One side of the hardware installed.

Installing the Astragal

Once the Astragal arrived, I cut the center part of the Astragal down so it would fit in between the two doors. Using wood glue and a nail gun, I attached the Astragal to the right door.

Astragal Attached to the Doors prior to staining

After the glue dried, I lightly stained the Astragal with the Weathered Oak Minwax Stain.

The Finished Product

All of the hard work that went into this project was well worth it! These new doors provide so much more functionality to our space. I would love to do this project again on our laundry room door!

The Finished Doors
Love the Farmhouse Look!
Added so much space to our pantry!
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Picture Frame Moulding: Bathroom Makeover

My Texas farmhouse is very builder grade. If you have been following my blog, then you know I have been steadily making over each room in my house. The latest project I decided to tackle was my half bathroom. Reusing materials is a great way to save money. I had a ton of picture frame moulding left over from my Board and Batten Dining Room Refresh so I decided to integrate it into my bathroom makeover.

Board and Batten Dining Room Refresh

Prior to the makeover, the bathroom was just bland and very monotone. I wanted to give the bathroom some character and a little pop of color.

Bathroom Before
Bathroom Before
Bathroom Before

Before the remodel, the bathroom had a pretty boring cheap light, all nickel hardware, and a very bland color pallet.

Starting the Picture Frame Moulding Renovation

I wanted to make the bathroom more of a statement room. The idea of wallpaper appealed to me however, I remembered I had a ton of picture frame moulding so I definitely wanted to utilize my leftovers because it is free! I had left over paint from my Board and Batten Dining Room Refresh, so I decided to reuse it in this project as well. I pre painted the wall and the top rail moulding pieces prior to installation.

I decided to make a half wall around the entire bathroom with moulding squares and moulding as the mini top rail. In order to make picture frame moulding squares the moulding pieces must be cut at a 45 degree angle on a miter saw so all of the edges line up with minimal gapping. Using the miter saw, I cut all four sides of the moulding square and then placed them on the ground to make sure they fit together.

My Picture Frame Moulding Squares Lined Up prior to Installation

The trickier part of the picture frame moulding for me, was the chair rail at the top. In the end, I determined I needed to make 45 degree bevel cuts for the picture frame moulding to meet seamlessly.

Creating the Walls

First, I attached the top rail picture frame moulding to each wall using my nail gun.

Top Rail
Top Rail

Then, I attached each picture frame moulding square evenly on each wall with my nail gun. I made sure to evenly space my squares so everything looked aesthetically pleasing. I didn’t paint the moulding squares prior to placing them on the wall.

Picture Moulding Squares

After all of the moulding pieces were in place, I wood filled all of the seams and the holes.

Picture Moulding with Wood Filler

I sanded the wood filler once it was dried and then painted the remaining sections of the walls.

Accents

Prior to renovating the bathroom, I purchased and installed a black towel hook. I wanted the rest of the bathroom fixtures to match the hook. I purchased a black toilet paper roll holder and a black faucet and sink drain from Amazon.

Installing the faucet was easy but the sink drain took a little more work. Due to the fact the sink in the bathroom is a pedestal sink, I had to remove the sink top completely from the wall to install the new drain plug. Even though it was a little more work it was well worth it!

Black Faucet and Sink Drain

I found a light fixture I loved on Amazon as well. They sold the same light fixture at Home Depot, however, it was cheaper on Amazon. Always shop around to get the best price!

Updated Light Fixture

I am so happy with how this bathroom turned out. A simple and easy renovation made such a huge difference!

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Board and Batten Dining Room Refresh

I originally placed Board and Batten in my dining room to help elevate the space. My original Board and Batten or Bust project was great but I felt like it was time for a change. I wanted to slightly change the wall to add a touch of elegance with a beautiful pop of color. Follow me on my Board and Batten Dining Room Refresh journey.

The Original Space

The picture above is our original dining room area when we purchased the house prior to our first renovation.

Our completed Board and Batten or Bust Project

Our original remodel was great but it just felt like something was missing. Everything in my kitchen and living room area was so white and gray that I felt like we needed a change.

Materials:

  • Nail Gun
  • Brad Nails
  • Picture Frame Moulding
  • Caulk
  • Wood Filler
  • Paint of Choice

Starting the Project

First, I swapped out the original boards for primed MDF boards. I used primed MDF boards on the stairway and I wanted everything to flow better.

After, I attached the new MDF boards in the same pattern, I lined the inside of each square with picture frame moulding. Picture frame moulding is cheap and easy to work with. To make a perfect square you simply cut each edge of the picture frame moulding to a 45 degree angle so they all fit together.

New MDF with picture moulding

I decided to add a top rail to the top of the MDF boards to give it some more character. After all of the boards are in, we caulked and wood filled all of the spaces and edges.

I picked the most amazing color out at Home Depot! The Glidden Light Drizzle in Flat was the perfect color for this space! I decided to paint the baseboards to match for a more complete look.

This project turned out so much better than I could have imagined! I don’t typically enjoy redoing spaces but this was well worth the work!

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Shiplap Entryway Makeover

Designing is a big part of my life, it is just something I love doing! My parents asked for my help in updating their entryway to make it a more functional space. I came up with an idea for their entryway that would give them a modern farmhouse look while still staying in budget. Follow my journey as I complete this fun Shiplap Entryway Makeover.

This is the before picture!

The above is the before picture of the entryway space. The space was fine but it lacked character and functionality. While this isn’t their main entryway, it is the area all the grandkids enter when coming into the house. Prior to starting the makeover we found the perfect bench for this small space at Homegoods. Since the space is narrow we did not want a big bulky bench!

After we cleared the entryway of all the decor we got started on the shiplap entryway makeover!

Materials

  • Primed Shiplap from Lowes (12 foot and 8 foot boards)
  • 1 1/2 inch brad nails
  • Nail Gun
  • Table Saw
  • Miter Saw
  • Wood Filler
  • Paint
  • Caulk
  • Outlet Extenders
  • Decor
  • jigsaw

Getting Started with the Shiplap Entryway Makeover

Personally, I prefer to use the primed Shiplap boards from Lowes. I know there are several hacks for putting in shiplap cheaply. I have tried some of these techniques but the old saying goes, you get what you pay for. Don’t try and save money by ripping plywood or using a thinner piece of wood because these products never look as good in person.

Obviously, we measured the space and obtained the correct amount of Shiplap to cover the three walls. On the two long walls we attached 12 foot shiplap pieces onto the wall with the brad nails and nail gun. After the 12 foot shiplap boards were hung, we measured and cut down 8 foot shiplap boards into the correct lengths for the remaining space using our miter saw. We then attached the remaining boards to the wall using our brad nails and nail gun.

This shows the 12 foot board placements on the wall!

To cut around the outlets, we simply marked the location that needed to be cut on the shiplap board and used a jigsaw to cut out the small square section.

When we got to the bottom of the wall, we had to cut our shiplap down to fit the remaining space left on the wall, for this we used our table saw.

We wanted the shiplap to appear to be seamless so we added wood filler to the gaps between the boards and also the nail holes.

See all the Woodfiller! This is the end of day 2!

We decided to cut around all of the existing moulding as opposed to removing it and reattaching it. Leaving the moulding made the project more challenging but we made it work!

Finishing Touches on the Shiplap Wall

After all of the boards were in place and the wood filler had dried, I sanded each wall to ensure they were smooth!

Then, I caulked all three walls. While caulking is messy, it is an essential step in making the project look and feel professional.

We gave all three walls a fresh coat of white paint. I used Gliddens Minimalistic White Flat Paint from Home Depot.

Once the shiplap was in place, we needed to bring every outlet and light switch in line with the wood. We simply bought plastic outlet extenders from Home Depot and applied them to each outlet. This is a super simple step that cannot be skipped. The outlet needs an extender to avoid a fire safety hazard.

Lighting

The hallway had three can lights recessed into the ceiling. We decided to change those lights out for basket lights. Check out my last blog post, DIY Basket Lights on a Budget for a step by step guide on how to make the amazing lights we used!

DIY Basket Lights

Turning a recessed can light into a pendant light is super simple. We bought a can light conversion kit from Home Depot to complete the project.

Decorating the Space

We completed the space with a larger washable rug from Ruggable. The rug is perfect for the space! We reused the “HOME” lettering that was on the wall before the renovation but we moved it above the new bench.

I am so happy with how this project turned out!

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DIY Basket Lights on a Budget

Basket Lights are definitely the new hot trend. I love the look of Basket Lights but I do not love the price tag of them! Basket Lights range in price from $70 on the cheaper end to $500 on the expensive end. The concept of a basket light seems pretty simple so I thought I would make a DIY Basket Light to fit my budget!

I pulled inspiration from some of my favorite basket lights at Serena and Lily. I love Serena and Lily but sadly their products are not within my budget. A girl can dream! The Summerland Pendant lights are beautiful but they retail at $498 a piece.

Summerland Pendant Light by Serena and Lily $498

I found a basket light similar to the Serena and Lily lights at world Market for $70 a piece but they did not come with light strings. The Basketweave Bamboo Pendant Shades are pretty and affordable but I knew I could get the price lower!

World Market Basketweave Bamboo Pendant Shade $70

Finding The Perfect Basket

I set out on a mission to find the perfect basket for the look I was attempting to achieve. A lot of baskets at the stores tend to have handles or holes for carrying. I knew I did not want a basket with any type of handle because I wanted it to look like an intentional light fixture.

I found the absolutely perfect baskets at one of my favorite stores, Target! The Threshold Decorative Woven Seagrass Basket cost $30 and fit all of my criteria! The basket was firm and not flimsy so I knew it would hold up perfectly as a light fixture.

Threshold Decorative Woven Seagrass Basket $30

Materials

Making the Perfect DIY Basket Light

Basket and Electric Drill with Drill Bit

First, get your electric drill with your desired drill bit. Flip your basket upside down and find the middle of the basket. Second, drill a hole through the middle of the basket.

Drilling a hole through the middle of the Basket with my desired Drill Bit.

Run the Pendant Wire through the hole in the basket and adjust the wire to the desired height.

Pendant Light Wire and Basket
Wire installed in Basket

After the wire was in, I cut the remaining excess wire. For this project, I changed can lights into pendant lights so I purchased and installed a Westinghouse can light conversion kit to each can light.

I turned off the power before installing any of the light fixtures. I simply attached the wires appropriately and secured the pendant light plate to the ceiling as directed.

Threshold Basket Lights Installed

It is amazing how these basket lights transformed this space. The total cost of this basket light was $48! I can’t believe how amazingly easy this project was. I cannot wait to make more!

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DIY Vertical Shiplap

Vertical Shiplap is an easy way to update your space and make it comfortable and homey. I decided to shiplap our entire upstairs living room and hallway areas.

The upstairs area in our house is the kids area, which means the walls take a beating. We had two options: shiplap or repaint. DIY vertical shiplap tied in the farmhouse feel we have throughout our house and was less expensive than hiring a painter to come in and repaint our space. The decision was made and I set out on my journey to DIY vertical shiplap the entire upstairs by myself during a quarantine with kids. Here is my journey!

GETTING STARTED DIY VERTICAL SHIPLAP

While I did not want to make extra work for myself, I quickly decided I needed to frame out all of the windows in the upstairs living room. The upstairs windows needed a frame to tie the vertical shiplap together and make it look cohesive. I decided to purchase the same boards I would be using as a top edger for the shiplap to frame out the windows.

First, I measured the space I was working in and got a rough idea on how much shiplap I would need to complete the project. Let me tell you, my original measuring was incorrect due to varying baseboard heights. Just be prepared because nothing is ever level and the walls are never even!

Next, I determined how much edging I would need for the top of the shiplap. I did not need to purchase edging for the bottom of the shiplap because there is an existing thick baseboard that would act as an edger.

I did not buy finishing cap pieces for corners until the end of my project.

MATERIALS:

– Classic 5.25-in x 8-ft White Pine Shiplap Wall Plank (Shiplap Boards)

–Trim Board Primed Pine Finger-Joint (Common: 1 in. x 3 in. x 8 ft.; Actual: .719 in. x 2.5 in. x 96 in.) (Top Edger for Shiplap and my window trim)

–Plastic Wood 6 oz. White Latex Wood Filler (I prefer to use White)

–Alex Flex 10.1 oz. White Premium Molding and Trim Sealant

–Nail Gun

-Jig Saw

-Miter Saw

-Table Saw or Circular Saw

–Electrical Box Extenders ( this is needed for each electrical outlet/light switch)

-Sand Paper

–1 in. x 1 in. x 8 ft. Wood Primed Outside Corner Moulding

-Quarter Round Moulding

-Level

-Paint

INSTALLATION Of TOP EDGER:

The first thing you need to do is decide on the height of your vertical shiplap. Since I was working with 8 Foot boards, I decided the easiest and most economical approach would be to cut the boards directly in half. Due to the fact that the boards would be resting on top of my existing baseboards, the 4 foot boards would be perfect.

My biggest mistake during this project was precutting the shiplap boards for the first wall. Turns out my baseboards are not level! I know, I know; measure twice cut once. Honestly, It just wasn’t something I thought about prior to cutting those boards. You live and you learn!

Another mistake I quickly figured out was, the top edger must be installed prior to adding the shiplap because it will save you a lot of time further into the project! Since I was doing vertical shiplap on all of the upstairs walls, the top edger needed to connect at the same height throughout the entire space. Placing the top edger up first throughout the space just makes your life easier when it is time to add the shiplap to avoid boards not lining up (been there done that and got the badge!).

I attached all of the top edger to the wall using 1 1/4 Brad Nails and my Nail Gun and level. After the top edger us up, I framed out my windows with the same wood I used for the top edger.

Top Edger is on before Shiplap Installation

INSTALLATION OF VERTICAL SHIPLAP:

After the windows were framed out, I attached the shiplap pieces to the wall using the same brad nails and nail gun. While it is ideal to shoot the nails into a stud, if you cannot find a stud in the area you are hanging you can alternate shooting brad nails at an angle into the board.

All of the walls I installed vertical shiplap on had power outlets and/or light switches. When you encounter an outlet or light switch you must first mark the location of the outlet/switch onto your shiplap board piece. I marked the outlet locations by flipping the outlet cover and reattaching it to the outlet backwards. I applied paint to the edge of the backwards outlet cover and then placed my shiplap boards against the wall to get the exact location of the outlet.

Using a jigsaw, I cut the outlet locations out of the shiplap boards. Because the cut you need to make to the shiplap may be in the middle of your board, you may need to use a power drill to pre drill holes in the corners before cutting with the jigsaw.

Top Edger, Framed Window, and Shiplap with cutout for Outlet!

INSTALLING REMAINING TRIM PIECES:

Depending on your space, you may need trim pieces to finish off the walls. I added outside corner molding to all of the outside edges and quarter round molding to the interior edges.

Quarter Round Pictured on this Wall

INSTALLING OUTLET EXTENDERS:

Once the shiplap is up, the outlets and light switches will need to be extended. The outlets and switches should sit flush to the shiplap.

First, turn the power off to the area you are working. I used a lamp to ensure the power was indeed turned off. Next, I detached the outlets from the wall. Finally, I added the plastic outlet extenders and reattached the outlets to the wall.

FINISHING TOUCHES:

First, I used wood filler to fill all of the nail holes. Next, I added paintable caulk to all of the vertical shiplap and trim edges. Finally, I sanded down all of the wood filler and painted the shiplap and edger with white paint I had on hand.

Finished Space for Relaxation and Play!
The windows are perfection and really really change the space!
I was able to add a work space for the kids and I

This project transformed my upstairs area into a beautiful living room/office/kids area. I could not be any happier with our new functional space!

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DIY Kids Farmhouse Table and Chairs

The modern Farmhouse look is all around us but often those looks can be expensive! I refuse to spends hundreds of dollars on children’s furniture that the kids will quickly outgrow. I also don’t want to buy those clunky and ugly made for kids furniture items because they are such an eye sore! Since we are spending a lot of time at home and will even be attending school from home, I needed to create a kids workspace before the school year started. I decided to make the kids a DIY Farmhouse Table and Chairs so the kids had a fun and cute space to learn and play. Follow my step by step guide below to achieve an adorable DIY Kids Farmhouse Table and Chairs!

Finding The Perfect Table

Finding the perfect table for your DIY kids farmhouse table and chairs at a good price is the first step. I found my table and chairs for FREE on Facebook. Facebook is usually the first place I head to find items but you can also try Criagslist, Letgo, or Goodwill. You can also purchase a brand new cheap table and chairs if you can find a good deal online. I found this white Delta Table and Chairs from a Facebook group in my area that offers up items for free.

Free White Table and Chairs

The table and chairs I received for free was hardly in perfect condition. The top of the table had several paint blemishes and dents. But for a free table and chairs this set was in pretty good condition!

Designing the Perfect DIY Kids Farmhouse Table

Originally when I picked up the table, I thought I would just paint the table and chairs. However, when I got the table home I was inspired by my living room coffee table. I received a free coffee table and remodeled the table to better fit our farmhouse vibe and I love how it turned out! I painted the bottom half white and stained the top with a grey wood stain.

Refinished Coffee Table-Inspiration for DIY Kids Farmhouse Table

Prepping

I sanded the top of the kids table to get rid of the paint blemishes that had bubbled up. After the top of the table was sanded, I discovered the table was made of particle board. While I was not surprised the kids table was not made out of real wood, it made me take a step back and re-evaluate my plan.

Painting

I knew I wanted the table to be navy blue, so I decided to go forward and paint the table completely. I used two cans of navy blue spray paint I already had in the garage from a previous project. Using paints and materials I already have on hand saves me time and money. I sprayed the table once and let it dry completely. After the table was dry, I applied a second coat of paint to ensure it was completely covered. I left the table outside to dry.

Shiplap

For many of my home renovation projects in the past, I have used a thin shiplap material I purchased from Home Depot. I used the same shiplap material to complete my project Faux Built in Fireplace with Shiplap.

Faux Built in Fireplace with Shiplap

I had several pieces of the thin shiplap material in my garage. I thought Shiplap would make the perfect top for the DIY Kids Farmhouse Table.

Constructing the Shiplap Table Top

I took the thin shiplap pieces and cut each piece down to size to make the tabletop. After each piece was cut, I applied a gray wood stain I already had in my garage to each piece of shiplap. I used the Varathane Weathered Gray stain. When applied, the stain has an almost paint like appearance. As the stain dries, the wood grain pops through and gives it a great antique look.

After the stain dried, I arranged the wood on top of the table to ensure the proper placement. I applied wood glue to the bottom of the wood pieces and attached them to the top of the table. Using my nail gun, I attached each piece of wood directly to the table top with 4 nails in each slat. Wood Glue ensures each portion of the wood securely adheres to the tabletop.

The sides of the table were slightly uneven, so I decided to sand down the edges of the table.

Table Top with Unfinished Sides

Using my handheld electric sander, I gently sanded the tabletop edges down until they were even. I reapplied stain to the areas that had been sanded and left the table outside to dry.

Chairs!

The table I received for free included two chairs. The chairs were white and I decided to leave them white. Some paint touch up was needed, so I applied some generic white paint I had around the house to the chairs.

If the table you get doesn’t have chairs, there are several great farmhouse kids chairs online for a reasonable price. Here are a few of my favorites:

B. spaces Toddler Chair in Mint

I love these B. spaces by Battat Trendy Toddler Chairs in Mint, they are $46.95 for a 2 pack on Amazon.

ACEssentials Metal Kids Activity Chairs

These Metal Activity Chairs by ACEssentials area adorably cute and come in a variety of colors, these can be found at Target at $81.99 fora 2 pack.

Finishing Touches

Once the table and chairs were dry, I placed them in the house for the kids to enjoy. This was a much needed addition to assist with our at home learning!

Completed Table!