Our family is going through a big big change! We are quickly approaching the birth of our third son, yikes! Before our new bundle arrives, we have decided to completely redo both of the older boys rooms. Our youngest son loves shiplap! Last year, we added shiplap to the entire upstairs living room and hallway areas. After the completion of our DIY Vertical Shiplap project, my son insisted on having the same thing in his room! We decided to go a slightly different direction with the vertical shiplap in our sons room. Here is our journey from little boys bedroom to big brother room!
Before Bedroom
The bedroom before was thrown together with items we had on hand from our other house. We used our Cricut to make some red and blue stars for his wall. I wanted to change his space so he could have something that he could grow into. Shiplap seemed like the right fit for this space!
Design and Budget
Wood is super expensive right now. While I would have loved to do an entire room full of shiplap, it simply wasn’t in the budget. A focus wall behind his bed seemed like the most logical, budget friendly choice.
The ceilings in our house are very tall. The longer the wood the more expensive the pieces are. To save some money on this project, I decided to purchase 8 foot shiplap boards and use a thicker piece of wood to edge the space difference between the top of the shiplap and the ceiling. For the wall edger, I purchased three 1-in x 8-in x 12-ft Square primed pine boards from Lowes. Luckily, I had some leftover shiplap on hand from recent projects. I ended up only needing to purchase 15 8-Foot shiplap boards.
Wayfair had an awesome yearly sale where I was able to find and purchase an amazing bed frame. I utilized the existing Full mattress and transferred it over to the new bedframe. The bed frame we chose was the Aadvik Tufted Upholstered Low Profile Standard Bed by Greyleigh in blue and we paid $147.82 for it.
Aadvik Tufted Upholstered Low Profile Standard Bed by Greyleigh
In order to add more storage to the room, I purchased two large nightstands from Target to place on either side of the new bed. I scored these Mixed Material 3 Drawer Nightstands by Room Essentials on Target clearance for $60 each. While it took me forever to put these nightstands together, it was well worth the time for how great they make the space look.
Room Essentials Nightstands From Target
We went back and forth on the color of the shiplap wall, but ultimately I ended up using white for a number of reasons. The first reason for using white paint was we already had it on hand so we didn’t need to add paint to our budget. Second, I wanted to keep the hanging American Flag banners on the ceilings, so any other color would have clashed with that design choice.
Starting the Shiplap Wall
First, I attached all of the 12 foot edger boards to the top and sides of the focal wall using 1.5 inch brad nails.
Top Edger Board in Place
Once all of the edger boards were in place, I started adding the 8 foot shiplap boards to the wall. I started the first shiplap board in the center of the wall to ensure the layout would be visually even. All of the shiplap pieces were attached to the wall using my nail gun and 1.5 inch brad nails. After all of the shiplap pieces were in place, I caulked all of the edges and filled all of the nail holes with wood filler. Next, I lightly sanded the boards to remove any excess wood filler.
The shiplap wall pre paint!
Finally, I painted the shiplap wall using a foam roller brush as well as a smaller angled brush to ensure the wall was fully covered. I only needed to use one coat of paint because the boards were pre primed.
Finishing Touches
Once the wall was complete, I brought in all of the furniture and accessories I purchased for the room.
My son’s big brother bedroom is complete! Everyone is so happy with how this turned out. Our next project will be my oldest son’s bedroom makeover, make sure you keep your eyes peeled for that upcoming post!
The door that was installed on my pantry when we purchased the house swung inward, which made utilizing the pantry difficult. I toyed with the idea of a barn door, however, the pantry is in the mudroom and it would be difficult for the kids to operate. The only other solution was to install double doors that swung outward. Antique farmhouse doors were my dream; however, they are super expensive! I wanted an antique farmhouse door look but within my minimal budget. Follow me on my Bifold Pantry Door Makeover.
My ideal Pantry Door Inspiration
Finding The Perfect Bifold Pantry Door Without Breaking the Bank
I spent a lot of time searching the internet for the perfect Bifold Door. Bifold Doors are generally used for closets. They are doors that are connected together by a hinge that accordion open and close. Originally, I wanted a Bifold Door with glass because I really loved the look of an antique glass door. However, I couldn’t find a bifold door with glass that fit my doorframe size and my budget.
The doors in my house are impossibly tall which made finding an affordable bifold door tricky. Randomly, I found the best deal at Amazon. I purchased the 6-Panel Solid Wood 96×30 Bifold Door for $270.
This is the wood Bifold Door Purchased from Amazon
The best part of buying the Bifold Doors from Amazon was the free Prime Shipping. The doors took two weeks to arrive, but the price was worth the wait.
Prepping the Bifold Pantry Doors for Installation
First, I separated the doors by removing the hinges that connected the doors together. I lightly sanded the front and back of both doors. I lightly stained the front and backs of the doors with Weathered Oak Stain by Minwax.
Weathered Oak Stain by Minwax
This was the same stain I used for my faux beam in the entryway to the mudroom.
Faux Beam with Weathered Oak Stain and Original Pantry Door
Generally, when you install a new door swinging in a new direction you have to do a lot of prep work on the door for the hinges. The best part of this project is I did NOT have to alter the door to install new hinges!
I purchased Non-Mortise Hinges from Home Depot. Due to the height of the Bifold Door, each door required 4 Non-Mortise Hinges.
Installing The Doors
Installing Non-Mortise Hinge Doors requires two people. First, I attached the hinges to the door. Next, I had my husband hold the first door up to the correct height while I screwed the hinges directly into the existing door jam. Then, we attached the second door the same way as the first.
First Door Attached to the Frame with Non-Mortise Hinges
Testing the Door to Make Sure it Closes Properly
Both Doors Installed
After the installation of the second door, I realized there was a slight gap between the doors. My husband said the gap was fine; however, I wanted the door to look professional. I purchased a wood Astragal to bridge the gap in the door. The Astragal had to be special ordered from Home Depot so while I waited for that I got to work on the door hardware.
Door Hardware
Keeping with the farmhouse look, I decided to purchase Cremone Bolt hardware for the doors. The hardware was purchased from Amazon because that is where I could find the hardware at the best price. I did not have to alter the door to install the hardware because I decided to use magnetic closure for the doors to make my life easier. The door handles are considered dummy doorhandles and are just used to pull them open and closed.
Cremone Bolt Iron Hardware for 9′ Doors
Installing the Cremone Bolt Hardware required two people. The hardware was slightly too long for my doors. Using the metal blade on my table saw, I cut down the hardware slightly for each door. After getting the hardware in place, I attached magnetic closure locks to the top of the frame and the top of each door.
One side of the hardware installed.
Installing the Astragal
Once the Astragal arrived, I cut the center part of the Astragal down so it would fit in between the two doors. Using wood glue and a nail gun, I attached the Astragal to the right door.
Astragal Attached to the Doors prior to staining
After the glue dried, I lightly stained the Astragal with the Weathered Oak Minwax Stain.
The Finished Product
All of the hard work that went into this project was well worth it! These new doors provide so much more functionality to our space. I would love to do this project again on our laundry room door!
My Texas farmhouse is very builder grade. If you have been following my blog, then you know I have been steadily making over each room in my house. The latest project I decided to tackle was my half bathroom. Reusing materials is a great way to save money. I had a ton of picture frame moulding left over from my Board and Batten Dining Room Refresh so I decided to integrate it into my bathroom makeover.
Board and Batten Dining Room Refresh
Prior to the makeover, the bathroom was just bland and very monotone. I wanted to give the bathroom some character and a little pop of color.
Bathroom Before
Bathroom Before
Bathroom Before
Before the remodel, the bathroom had a pretty boring cheap light, all nickel hardware, and a very bland color pallet.
Starting the Picture Frame Moulding Renovation
I wanted to make the bathroom more of a statement room. The idea of wallpaper appealed to me however, I remembered I had a ton of picture frame moulding so I definitely wanted to utilize my leftovers because it is free! I had left over paint from my Board and Batten Dining Room Refresh, so I decided to reuse it in this project as well. I pre painted the wall and the top rail moulding pieces prior to installation.
I decided to make a half wall around the entire bathroom with moulding squares and moulding as the mini top rail. In order to make picture frame moulding squares the moulding pieces must be cut at a 45 degree angle on a miter saw so all of the edges line up with minimal gapping. Using the miter saw, I cut all four sides of the moulding square and then placed them on the ground to make sure they fit together.
My Picture Frame Moulding Squares Lined Up prior to Installation
The trickier part of the picture frame moulding for me, was the chair rail at the top. In the end, I determined I needed to make 45 degree bevel cuts for the picture frame moulding to meet seamlessly.
Creating the Walls
First, I attached the top rail picture frame moulding to each wall using my nail gun.
Top Rail
Top Rail
Then, I attached each picture frame moulding square evenly on each wall with my nail gun. I made sure to evenly space my squares so everything looked aesthetically pleasing. I didn’t paint the moulding squares prior to placing them on the wall.
Picture Moulding Squares
After all of the moulding pieces were in place, I wood filled all of the seams and the holes.
Picture Moulding with Wood Filler
I sanded the wood filler once it was dried and then painted the remaining sections of the walls.
Accents
Prior to renovating the bathroom, I purchased and installed a black towel hook. I wanted the rest of the bathroom fixtures to match the hook. I purchased a black toilet paper roll holder and a black faucet and sink drain from Amazon.
Installing the faucet was easy but the sink drain took a little more work. Due to the fact the sink in the bathroom is a pedestal sink, I had to remove the sink top completely from the wall to install the new drain plug. Even though it was a little more work it was well worth it!
Black Faucet and Sink Drain
I found a light fixture I loved on Amazon as well. They sold the same light fixture at Home Depot, however, it was cheaper on Amazon. Always shop around to get the best price!
Updated Light Fixture
I am so happy with how this bathroom turned out. A simple and easy renovation made such a huge difference!
I originally placed Board and Batten in my dining room to help elevate the space. My original Board and Batten or Bust project was great but I felt like it was time for a change. I wanted to slightly change the wall to add a touch of elegance with a beautiful pop of color. Follow me on my Board and Batten Dining Room Refresh journey.
The Original Space
The picture above is our original dining room area when we purchased the house prior to our first renovation.
Our completed Board and Batten or Bust Project
Our original remodel was great but it just felt like something was missing. Everything in my kitchen and living room area was so white and gray that I felt like we needed a change.
Materials:
Nail Gun
Brad Nails
Picture Frame Moulding
Caulk
Wood Filler
Paint of Choice
Starting the Project
First, I swapped out the original boards for primed MDF boards. I used primed MDF boards on the stairway and I wanted everything to flow better.
After, I attached the new MDF boards in the same pattern, I lined the inside of each square with picture frame moulding. Picture frame moulding is cheap and easy to work with. To make a perfect square you simply cut each edge of the picture frame moulding to a 45 degree angle so they all fit together.
New MDF with picture moulding
I decided to add a top rail to the top of the MDF boards to give it some more character. After all of the boards are in, we caulked and wood filled all of the spaces and edges.
I picked the most amazing color out at Home Depot! The Glidden Light Drizzle in Flat was the perfect color for this space! I decided to paint the baseboards to match for a more complete look.
This project turned out so much better than I could have imagined! I don’t typically enjoy redoing spaces but this was well worth the work!
Designing is a big part of my life, it is just something I love doing! My parents asked for my help in updating their entryway to make it a more functional space. I came up with an idea for their entryway that would give them a modern farmhouse look while still staying in budget. Follow my journey as I complete this fun Shiplap Entryway Makeover.
This is the before picture!
The above is the before picture of the entryway space. The space was fine but it lacked character and functionality. While this isn’t their main entryway, it is the area all the grandkids enter when coming into the house. Prior to starting the makeover we found the perfect bench for this small space at Homegoods. Since the space is narrow we did not want a big bulky bench!
After we cleared the entryway of all the decor we got started on the shiplap entryway makeover!
Materials
Primed Shiplap from Lowes (12 foot and 8 foot boards)
1 1/2 inch brad nails
Nail Gun
Table Saw
Miter Saw
Wood Filler
Paint
Caulk
Outlet Extenders
Decor
jigsaw
Getting Started with the Shiplap Entryway Makeover
Personally, I prefer to use the primed Shiplap boards from Lowes. I know there are several hacks for putting in shiplap cheaply. I have tried some of these techniques but the old saying goes, you get what you pay for. Don’t try and save money by ripping plywood or using a thinner piece of wood because these products never look as good in person.
Obviously, we measured the space and obtained the correct amount of Shiplap to cover the three walls. On the two long walls we attached 12 foot shiplap pieces onto the wall with the brad nails and nail gun. After the 12 foot shiplap boards were hung, we measured and cut down 8 foot shiplap boards into the correct lengths for the remaining space using our miter saw. We then attached the remaining boards to the wall using our brad nails and nail gun.
This shows the 12 foot board placements on the wall!
To cut around the outlets, we simply marked the location that needed to be cut on the shiplap board and used a jigsaw to cut out the small square section.
When we got to the bottom of the wall, we had to cut our shiplap down to fit the remaining space left on the wall, for this we used our table saw.
We wanted the shiplap to appear to be seamless so we added wood filler to the gaps between the boards and also the nail holes.
See all the Woodfiller! This is the end of day 2!
We decided to cut around all of the existing moulding as opposed to removing it and reattaching it. Leaving the moulding made the project more challenging but we made it work!
Finishing Touches on the Shiplap Wall
After all of the boards were in place and the wood filler had dried, I sanded each wall to ensure they were smooth!
Then, I caulked all three walls. While caulking is messy, it is an essential step in making the project look and feel professional.
We gave all three walls a fresh coat of white paint. I used Gliddens Minimalistic White Flat Paint from Home Depot.
Once the shiplap was in place, we needed to bring every outlet and light switch in line with the wood. We simply bought plastic outlet extenders from Home Depot and applied them to each outlet. This is a super simple step that cannot be skipped. The outlet needs an extender to avoid a fire safety hazard.
Lighting
The hallway had three can lights recessed into the ceiling. We decided to change those lights out for basket lights. Check out my last blog post, DIY Basket Lights on a Budget for a step by step guide on how to make the amazing lights we used!
DIY Basket Lights
Turning a recessed can light into a pendant light is super simple. We bought a can light conversion kit from Home Depot to complete the project.
Decorating the Space
We completed the space with a larger washable rug from Ruggable. The rug is perfect for the space! We reused the “HOME” lettering that was on the wall before the renovation but we moved it above the new bench.
Basket Lights are definitely the new hot trend. I love the look of Basket Lights but I do not love the price tag of them! Basket Lights range in price from $70 on the cheaper end to $500 on the expensive end. The concept of a basket light seems pretty simple so I thought I would make a DIY Basket Light to fit my budget!
I pulled inspiration from some of my favorite basket lights at Serena and Lily. I love Serena and Lily but sadly their products are not within my budget. A girl can dream! The Summerland Pendant lights are beautiful but they retail at $498 a piece.
Summerland Pendant Light by Serena and Lily $498
I found a basket light similar to the Serena and Lily lights at world Market for $70 a piece but they did not come with light strings. The Basketweave Bamboo Pendant Shades are pretty and affordable but I knew I could get the price lower!
World Market Basketweave Bamboo Pendant Shade $70
Finding The Perfect Basket
I set out on a mission to find the perfect basket for the look I was attempting to achieve. A lot of baskets at the stores tend to have handles or holes for carrying. I knew I did not want a basket with any type of handle because I wanted it to look like an intentional light fixture.
I found the absolutely perfect baskets at one of my favorite stores, Target! The Threshold Decorative Woven Seagrass Basket cost $30 and fit all of my criteria! The basket was firm and not flimsy so I knew it would hold up perfectly as a light fixture.
First, get your electric drill with your desired drill bit. Flip your basket upside down and find the middle of the basket. Second, drill a hole through the middle of the basket.
Drilling a hole through the middle of the Basket with my desired Drill Bit.
Run the Pendant Wire through the hole in the basket and adjust the wire to the desired height.
Pendant Light Wire and Basket
Wire installed in Basket
After the wire was in, I cut the remaining excess wire. For this project, I changed can lights into pendant lights so I purchased and installed a Westinghouse can light conversion kit to each can light.
I turned off the power before installing any of the light fixtures. I simply attached the wires appropriately and secured the pendant light plate to the ceiling as directed.
Threshold Basket Lights Installed
It is amazing how these basket lights transformed this space. The total cost of this basket light was $48! I can’t believe how amazingly easy this project was. I cannot wait to make more!
Vertical Shiplap is an easy way to update your space and make it comfortable and homey. I decided to shiplap our entire upstairs living room and hallway areas.
The upstairs area in our house is the kids area, which means the walls take a beating. We had two options: shiplap or repaint. DIY vertical shiplap tied in the farmhouse feel we have throughout our house and was less expensive than hiring a painter to come in and repaint our space. The decision was made and I set out on my journey to DIY vertical shiplap the entire upstairs by myself during a quarantine with kids. Here is my journey!
GETTING STARTED DIY VERTICAL SHIPLAP
While I did not want to make extra work for myself, I quickly decided I needed to frame out all of the windows in the upstairs living room. The upstairs windows needed a frame to tie the vertical shiplap together and make it look cohesive. I decided to purchase the same boards I would be using as a top edger for the shiplap to frame out the windows.
First, I measured the space I was working in and got a rough idea on how much shiplap I would need to complete the project. Let me tell you, my original measuring was incorrect due to varying baseboard heights. Just be prepared because nothing is ever level and the walls are never even!
Next, I determined how much edging I would need for the top of the shiplap. I did not need to purchase edging for the bottom of the shiplap because there is an existing thick baseboard that would act as an edger.
I did not buy finishing cap pieces for corners until the end of my project.
The first thing you need to do is decide on the height of your vertical shiplap. Since I was working with 8 Foot boards, I decided the easiest and most economical approach would be to cut the boards directly in half. Due to the fact that the boards would be resting on top of my existing baseboards, the 4 foot boards would be perfect.
My biggest mistake during this project was precutting the shiplap boards for the first wall. Turns out my baseboards are not level! I know, I know; measure twice cut once. Honestly, It just wasn’t something I thought about prior to cutting those boards. You live and you learn!
Another mistake I quickly figured out was, the top edger must be installed prior to adding the shiplap because it will save you a lot of time further into the project! Since I was doing vertical shiplap on all of the upstairs walls, the top edger needed to connect at the same height throughout the entire space. Placing the top edger up first throughout the space just makes your life easier when it is time to add the shiplap to avoid boards not lining up (been there done that and got the badge!).
I attached all of the top edger to the wall using 1 1/4 Brad Nails and my Nail Gun and level. After the top edger us up, I framed out my windows with the same wood I used for the top edger.
Top Edger is on before Shiplap Installation
INSTALLATION OF VERTICAL SHIPLAP:
After the windows were framed out, I attached the shiplap pieces to the wall using the same brad nails and nail gun. While it is ideal to shoot the nails into a stud, if you cannot find a stud in the area you are hanging you can alternate shooting brad nails at an angle into the board.
All of the walls I installed vertical shiplap on had power outlets and/or light switches. When you encounter an outlet or light switch you must first mark the location of the outlet/switch onto your shiplap board piece. I marked the outlet locations by flipping the outlet cover and reattaching it to the outlet backwards. I applied paint to the edge of the backwards outlet cover and then placed my shiplap boards against the wall to get the exact location of the outlet.
Using a jigsaw, I cut the outlet locations out of the shiplap boards. Because the cut you need to make to the shiplap may be in the middle of your board, you may need to use a power drill to pre drill holes in the corners before cutting with the jigsaw.
Top Edger, Framed Window, and Shiplap with cutout for Outlet!
INSTALLING REMAINING TRIM PIECES:
Depending on your space, you may need trim pieces to finish off the walls. I added outside corner molding to all of the outside edges and quarter round molding to the interior edges.
Quarter Round Pictured on this Wall
INSTALLING OUTLET EXTENDERS:
Once the shiplap is up, the outlets and light switches will need to be extended. The outlets and switches should sit flush to the shiplap.
First, turn the power off to the area you are working. I used a lamp to ensure the power was indeed turned off. Next, I detached the outlets from the wall. Finally, I added the plastic outlet extenders and reattached the outlets to the wall.
FINISHING TOUCHES:
First, I used wood filler to fill all of the nail holes. Next, I added paintable caulk to all of the vertical shiplap and trim edges. Finally, I sanded down all of the wood filler and painted the shiplap and edger with white paint I had on hand.
Finished Space for Relaxation and Play!
The windows are perfection and really really change the space!
I was able to add a work space for the kids and I
This project transformed my upstairs area into a beautiful living room/office/kids area. I could not be any happier with our new functional space!
The modern Farmhouse look is all around us but often those looks can be expensive! I refuse to spends hundreds of dollars on children’s furniture that the kids will quickly outgrow. I also don’t want to buy those clunky and ugly made for kids furniture items because they are such an eye sore! Since we are spending a lot of time at home and will even be attending school from home, I needed to create a kids workspace before the school year started. I decided to make the kids a DIY Farmhouse Table and Chairs so the kids had a fun and cute space to learn and play. Follow my step by step guide below to achieve an adorable DIY Kids Farmhouse Table and Chairs!
Finding The Perfect Table
Finding the perfect table for your DIY kids farmhouse table and chairs at a good price is the first step. I found my table and chairs for FREE on Facebook. Facebook is usually the first place I head to find items but you can also try Criagslist, Letgo, or Goodwill. You can also purchase a brand new cheap table and chairs if you can find a good deal online. I found this white Delta Table and Chairs from a Facebook group in my area that offers up items for free.
Free White Table and Chairs
The table and chairs I received for free was hardly in perfect condition. The top of the table had several paint blemishes and dents. But for a free table and chairs this set was in pretty good condition!
Designing the Perfect DIY Kids Farmhouse Table
Originally when I picked up the table, I thought I would just paint the table and chairs. However, when I got the table home I was inspired by my living room coffee table. I received a free coffee table and remodeled the table to better fit our farmhouse vibe and I love how it turned out! I painted the bottom half white and stained the top with a grey wood stain.
Refinished Coffee Table-Inspiration for DIY Kids Farmhouse Table
Prepping
I sanded the top of the kids table to get rid of the paint blemishes that had bubbled up. After the top of the table was sanded, I discovered the table was made of particle board. While I was not surprised the kids table was not made out of real wood, it made me take a step back and re-evaluate my plan.
Painting
I knew I wanted the table to be navy blue, so I decided to go forward and paint the table completely. I used two cans of navy blue spray paint I already had in the garage from a previous project. Using paints and materials I already have on hand saves me time and money. I sprayed the table once and let it dry completely. After the table was dry, I applied a second coat of paint to ensure it was completely covered. I left the table outside to dry.
Shiplap
For many of my home renovation projects in the past, I have used a thin shiplap material I purchased from Home Depot. I used the same shiplap material to complete my project Faux Built in Fireplace with Shiplap.
Faux Built in Fireplace with Shiplap
I had several pieces of the thin shiplap material in my garage. I thought Shiplap would make the perfect top for the DIY Kids Farmhouse Table.
Constructing the Shiplap Table Top
I took the thin shiplap pieces and cut each piece down to size to make the tabletop. After each piece was cut, I applied a gray wood stain I already had in my garage to each piece of shiplap. I used the Varathane Weathered Gray stain. When applied, the stain has an almost paint like appearance. As the stain dries, the wood grain pops through and gives it a great antique look.
After the stain dried, I arranged the wood on top of the table to ensure the proper placement. I applied wood glue to the bottom of the wood pieces and attached them to the top of the table. Using my nail gun, I attached each piece of wood directly to the table top with 4 nails in each slat. Wood Glue ensures each portion of the wood securely adheres to the tabletop.
The sides of the table were slightly uneven, so I decided to sand down the edges of the table.
Table Top with Unfinished Sides
Using my handheld electric sander, I gently sanded the tabletop edges down until they were even. I reapplied stain to the areas that had been sanded and left the table outside to dry.
Chairs!
The table I received for free included two chairs. The chairs were white and I decided to leave them white. Some paint touch up was needed, so I applied some generic white paint I had around the house to the chairs.
If the table you get doesn’t have chairs, there are several great farmhouse kids chairs online for a reasonable price. Here are a few of my favorites:
Once the table and chairs were dry, I placed them in the house for the kids to enjoy. This was a much needed addition to assist with our at home learning!
My family and I live in Texas where you absolutely need some sort of pool to stay cool during the summer months. Purchasing an in ground pool was out of the question for us due to cost. The first year we lived in our house, I bought the standard kiddie pool. The kiddie pool is fine for younger kids but I quickly realized we needed something bigger that the adults could enjoy also. I did a lot of research and decided to build a Stock Tank Pool.
Stock Tank Pool
Getting Started on the Stock Tank Pool
I highly recommend reading Hey Wanderer’s blog post on how they built a Stock Tank Pool. That particular blog offers great step by step instructions on how to complete a Stock Tank Pool. While I used Hey Wanderer’s blog post as a guide, I ran into some problems along the way that I had to tackle myself. Follow me as I walk you through my journey of building my very own Stock Tank Pool.
We purchased our Stock Tank from Tractor Supply and opted to have them deliver it to our house for an additional cost. Prior to the Stock Tank being delivered, we had the area we wanted the pool to be placed leveled. Since we were already doing a professional addition to our patio, we had them level the pool area for us and install an exterior electrical outlet near the pool. It is important your Stock Tank Pool is placed near an electrical outlet because you need electricity to run the Pool Pump.
Outdoor Electrical Outlet for Pool
We had our Stock Tank inlayed into our grass with a sand base to keep it level. You can put your Stock Tank pretty much anywhere but you must ensure the Stock Tank is level or you will run into a host of problems.
Once Tractor Supply delivered the Stock Tank, my husband and I pushed it into the backyard and set it into the area we had already designated for the pool. When you receive your Stock Tank, just ensure there is no major damage. There will be a seam inside the pool where the pool was welded together.
Welded Line Down the Middle of The Pool
Prepping for the Pump
Make sure your electric drill is fully charged before moving forward in the Stock Tank building process. Attach your 2 3/4 Diameter Hole Saw with Arbor to your drill. This is the step in the process where we had the most problems. Ideally, one hole should be placed near the top of the Stock Tank and a second hole should be placed near the bottom. The first hole should not be placed too high because the attachment that will be placed there needs to be submerged under water.
The first attempt at drilling the hole led to the drill attachment breaking. The reason the attachment broke was because we were trying to slowly drill the hole. My husband kept turning the drill on and off while easing the attachment into the Stock Tank which ultimately led to the drill attachment completely breaking off.
On our second attempt, we applied constant pressure to the drill while continuously drilling without stopping until the metal hole was completely cut through the Stock Tank. We repeated the same technique on the second hole with great success.
Our Completed Hose Line Holes for Pump
Attaching the Pump
The place where I drilled the top hole for the pool filter valves to be placed had a decorative ridge running through it. I did not was afraid the decorative ridge would cause a sealing issue for the filter valves. Using a hammer, I flattened the decorative ridge by hitting it repeatedly with a hammer on the inside of the pool. While this may not be the most inventive idea to get around the decorative ridge, it did work. Ideally we should have placed the hole slightly higher on the pool to avoid the ridge all together.
Next, I attached the top valve on the Stock Tank. Due to the fact I hammered out the top hole, I placed two rubber washers on the Adjustable Pool Inlet Jet. Once the rubber washers were in place, I attached the Adjustable Pool Inlet Jet with the Inlet Threaded Air Connector to the interior of the Stock Tank Pool. I secured the Pool Inlet Jet to the pool with the Strainer Nut. Lastly, I attached the Plunger Valve with Rubber Washer to the Pool inlet Jet.
Once the top hole was finished, I moved to the second hole on the Stock Tank Pool where the Strainer Grid would be placed. This time I only place one rubber washer on the Strainer Grid because I did not have as big of a gap on the bottom. I attached the Strainer Grid with the Inlet Threaded Air Connector to the interior of the Stock Tank Pool. I secured the Strainer Grid to the pool with the Strainer Nut. Lastly, I attached the Plunger Valve with Rubber Washer to the Pool inlet Jet.
Caulking is Key to Avoiding Leaks!
Once every attachment is securely in place and tightened down on the Stock Tank Pool, begin applying silicone caulk to the interior and exterior valves. This weatherproof silicone caulk sealant will prevent leaks from occurring from the holes you cut in your Stock Tank to attach the Pump.
When I say add sealant, I mean apply at least 2-3 coats of sealant around the interior and exterior valve connectors. Always allow the sealant to dry completely between coats.
When you think you have sealed the holes completely and everything is set, shoot a hose at the sealant area to see if there are any leaks present. Do not fill up the pool completely without checking for leaks because then you will have to drain the pool, which is just a waste of time and energy. If you see a leak, simply add more sealant and test it again with the hose when the sealant dries. If the sealant holds up, it is time to move on to attaching hoses and filling the stock tank!
Finishing Pump Set Up
The remainder of the pump set up is pretty straight forward. Attach the two hoses to the plunger valves and tighten them down. Connect the hoses to the pool pump and tighten them. I kept my plunger valves locked at this point until the pool was completely filled. Place the pool pump flat on the ground and plug it in but keep the pump off.
Filling the Stock Tank Pool
Now that everything is in place, take your garden hose and fill up your pool to your desired height. The pool water needs to completely cover the top valve. As you are filling, triple check your valves to make sure they are still good and not leaking.
Place two chlorine tabs into your chlorine floater and toss it into the pool.
Stock Tank Pool Filled Up!
Testing the Pump
Once everything is in place, unlock the inlet valves and turn your pool pump on and let it run. If there is no water jetting out of the top Jet Nozzle, simply unscrew the valve on the pool pump above the filter location to release some of the air.
General Maintenance and Care
I purchased a hand help pool strainer to keep the pool grass and debris free. I add two chlorine tablets to the chlorine floater once a week.
Run the pool pump for two hours a day everyday. There is a timer on the pool pump which I use to allow easy no hassle cleaning. The pump filter needs to be replaced every month. Buy the pool filter replacements in bulk through Amazon or Walmart.
Enjoy Your Summer
Stock Tank Pool Fun!
Since the completion of the Stock Tank Pool , my kids have been in the pool everyday! This Pool has been a saving grace during this crazy quarantine time period. Start your DIY Stock Tank Pool Project today and start enjoying your backyard for summer!
I recently posted a blog on Making Money as a Stay at Home Mom. I buy and sell items on multiple platforms to maximize my sales. This blog post will take you through the ins and outs of buying and selling on Poshmark vs. Mercari. This is a more in depth account of my previous blog post on Buying and Selling with Poshmark.
Poshmark
Just over two years ago, I started my selling journey on Poshmark. Poshmark has a great platform that is easy to navigate. In the comparison of Poshmark vs. Mercari I am definitely more of a Poshmark girl.
To get started, download the app onto your phone. Launch the app and follow the on screen prompts to create your profile. Next, choose a great name and include a picture so the prospective buyer get an idea on where their new items are coming from. After you create your profile you can immediately start uploading items to sell on your page.
Uploading Sale Items on Poshmark
The key to creating a great listing on Poshmark is photographs and price point! Make sure the pictures you are taking properly document the condition of the item you are selling while highlighting its great features with a neutral backdrop. Ensure you have a clean backdrop that highlights the item you are selling.
If an item you are selling has flaws or stains make sure to properly document them in your listing. Items purchased from your Poshmark shop can be contested by the buyer. If the buyer wins, the item will be shipped back to you and you will not receive payment on that item.
Button to Upload a Sale on Poshmark
To upload an item for sale, simply click the button on the bottom of the application that says “Sell” with a picture of a camera above it. The app will take you through a series of prompts to create your listing.
One of the most important parts of your listing is creating an appropriate price point for your item. The price point depends on the brand and item you are selling. Do research comparison for the item you will be listing by searching for the same item on Poshmark. If you price your item too high, it will just sit on the market. Poshmark allows you to edit or adjust your sale price at any time.
Advertising your Listed Items
Once your item is uploaded into your closet, you have a chance to advertise your sale items in different platforms. Different Poshmark “Parties” happen everyday at different times. You are allowed to share your sales items within the Poshmark Parties as long as the item meets the criteria for the Party. For example they always have a “Best in Shoes Party”, during that party you can share all of the shoe listing you have for sale in your closet. Joining these parties allows your listing to reach a larger buyer base.
Follow other peoples closets and share their listings because it will allow you to receive more followers. Poshmark has a Poshmark Ambassadors Program to become a Poshmark Ambassador you have to follow their set guidelines in the My Posh Stats of your profile. Becoming a Poshmark Ambassador indicates to others you are a trusted seller and you can get more sales because of your status.
Offer vs. Buy Now
There are two options when you are purchasing an item on Poshmark, you can either click Buy Now or Offer. If you click Buy Now, you will purchase the item at the listed sales price but remember as the buyer you will have to pay for shipping and taxes. The second option is Offer, you can offer the seller any price you would like for the sale item. The seller will either accept your offer, offer a counter offer, or decline your offer. If the seller declines your offer you can always offer the seller a different price and see if they will accept it.
I always make an offer on items because generally people will take less than what the item is listed for because they want to sell the item quickly.
As a buyer, if you “like” a listed item on someones page, they can send you offers for the item you liked with discounted shipping. This is a great option if you are tracking an item and not ready to commit to purchasing it yet. As a seller you can create offers for any listing that currently has a “like.” Poshamark requires as a seller if you are making an offer to prospective buyers that the item must be discounted at least 10 percent and you must discount the shipping.
Sending an Offer as a Seller
Boxing Sales Items
After you make a sale, you must ship the item out within three days (there are exceptions for weekends and holidays). If you are going out of town, Poshmark gives you the option of putting your closet in “Vacation Mode”. “Vacation Mode” means people can still see your closet but they cannot buy anything from your closet while you are out of town.
The main thing about boxing and shipping your sale item is you want it safe and secure. Poshmark provides ALL of the shipping labels and allows you to print them from your computer. The great thing about shipping through Poshmark is you can use the Priority Mail Boxes from the Post Office to ship. Priority Mailboxes from the Post Office are FREE! You cannot use the Express Priority Mailboxes so be aware of that when grabbing boxes.
Generally, I grab a large variety of boxes when I go into the Post Office and bring them home with me. I also use polymailers for smaller items. I purchased my polymailers in bulk from Amazon. Although you can use any cardboard boxes you have on hand, you want your box to look nice. You can decorate your boxes or send Thank You notes as a way to earn a good reviews.
Shipping your Sales Items
Once you package your item, print and attach the shipping label that will be sent to your email by Poshmark. Take the time to the Post Office and drop it at their prepaid package counter, there is no reason to wait in line!
When your package has shipped, you can track the shipment on the Poshmark App. Once the item is received the buyer has three days to contest the item. Once the item has been accepted by the buyer the money earned for your sale will be deposited into your Poshmark account. The money in the Poshmark account can be cashed out of applied to purchases on the Poshmark App.
Mercari
To maximize my sales I began selling on Mercari as well. I basically create double listings; one on Poshmark and one on Mercari. If an item sells on either platform then I delete the other duplicate listing.
Mercari is a very similar platform to Poshmark. Start by downloading the App and launching it onto your phone. Create your username page with a picture. Immediately begin uploading items for sale onto your page.
Uploading Sales Items on Mercari
Uploading items for sale on Mercari is very similar to uploading items onto Poshmark. Just like Poshmark, to upload your sale item you simply click the “Sell” button on the bottom of your application. Follow the on screen prompts to list your item for sale.
Listing a Sale Item on Mercari
In my experience, items listed for sale in Mercari generally sell for a lower price than Poshmark . Make sure you market and list your item exactly as you would do on Poshmark.
Boxing Sale Items and Shipping
The negative aspect of Mercari is you have to provide all of your shipping boxes. Mercari does not allow you to ship using USPS boxes like Poshmark. Mercari also makes the seller calculate their shipping costs. In order to calculate your shipping costs effectively you need a small postal scale. Using Poshmark all packages are shipped through USPS. Using Mercari, packages can be shipped through USPS, Fed-Ex, or UPS.
Mercari encourages the seller to cover the shipping costs in each listing. Shipping costs in general are more expensive on Mercari as opposed to Poshmark.
Mercari Messaging System
The thing Mercari has that Poshmark doesn’t is an instant messenger feature. Buyers and Sellers can directly asked questions about an item through Mercari’s instant messaging system which makes things easier.
Poshmark currently does not have a messaging system. The only way to talk to someone through Poshmark is by commenting on a listing in public forum.
Advertising Sale Items on Mercari
Currently the only way to advertise sale items on Mercari is to lower the price which allows that item to be moved to the top of the thread. There are no parties or events to share your listed items in like Poshmark.
Conclusion
Overall, I prefer the Poshmark platform to the Mercari platform. Poshmark has an easier user manifest and makes packaging an shipping items a breeze. The only thing Poshmark can approve upon would be a direct messaging system for buyers and sellers like Mercari.
I will continue to sell on both platforms to maximize my sales. Hopefully this tutorial in distinguishing the benefits and downfalls on buying and selling on Poshmark vs. Mercari.
