Tag: DIY

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DIY Built-in Closet Organizers

Peel and Stick Wall Papered Built-in

At our last house, we hired a big name closet storage company to come in and redo our master closet. We spent a ridiculous amount on built-ins for basically particle board. For our new house I knew we needed drawer storage in our Master Bedroom closet but sadly it was not in our budget. I challenged myself to think outside the box or closet in this case! I came up with a plan to build my own storage! Follow my DIY built-in Closet Organizers guide to help make your life and your closet a little more organized.

Materials:

  • 4 IKEA Rast 3 Drawer Dressers
  • Paint
  • Decorative Drawer Pulls
  • Trim
  • Nail Gun
  • Brackets (8)
  • Wood
  • Peel and Stick Wallpaper
  • Caulk
  • Full Length Mirror

Simplifying the Project

Instead of building everything from scratch I found inexpensive three drawer wood dressers from Ikea of all places. The Rast 3 drawer dresser from Ikea is only $39.99 per dresser.

Rast 3 Drawer Dresser
Rast 3 Drawer Dresser

I wanted to build a built-in dresser for myself and my husband so I ordered 4 Rast 3 Drawer Dressers(2 dressers for each person)

I do not live near an IKEA so I ordered the dressers online and had them shipped to me. IKEA offers reasonable shipping, I had all of the dressers shipped to me for a flat rate of $9.99.

Accessories

The Rast 3 drawer dressers are pretty plain. I decided to paint the dressers with a gray paint I had leftover from another project. I love to utilize the paints and stains I already have on hand to help save money.

Amazon had some really cute, really inexpensive crystal drawer pulls that were perfect for my closest renovation.

Glass Cabinet Knobs
Glass Cabinet Knobs

I got 25 glass drawer pulls for $15.25. They are cute and inexpensive, which fit my project perfectly.

Getting Started

First, start by assembling all four dressers. Once the dressers have been assembled, it is time to paint. Paint each dresser with the paint of your choosing.

After everything is dry, make sure the drawers have been removed and attach the bottom dressers to the wall using the support strap that is included with the dresser.

Fully Assembled Dresser
Fully Assembled Dresser

Stack the second dresser on top of the first dresser and attach it to the wall with the provided support strap.

Attach the top dresser to the bottom dresser using 4, 2 inch brackets (2 on each side). These brackets will help keep the dresser stabilized.

2" Brackets
2″ Brackets

Once the dressers were in place, I attached a piece of decorative trim to the gap between the two dressers to give it a more customized look

Using a nail gun, I attached a piece of wood to each side of the dresser. I decided to run the wood on each side all the way up to our existing closet shelf. Running the wood up the side gives the built-in dresser a shelf to place belongings.

I added trim to the wall along each side of the unit using a nail gun. After all of the trim pieces were in place I caulked and touched up paint on the unit.

One Completely Assembled Built-In
One Completely Assembled Built-In

I assembled the second built-in unit using the guide above.

Both built-in units fully assembled
Both built-in units fully assembled

I had left over Peel and Stick Wallpaper from my Pantry Renovation and Reorganization on a Budget, so I decided to incorporate it into my closet renovation.

I used the Buffalo Plaid patterned Peel and Stick Wallpaper to line the sides of the built-ins and the back wall behind the unit.

Peel and Stick Wall Papered Built-in
Peel and Stick Wall Papered Built-in
Peel and Stick Wall Papered Built-in
Peel and Stick Wall Papered Built-in

I decided to add a full length mirror to the built-in unit. Target had the perfect mirror for $16.99. I attached the mirror to the built-in dressers with Command Strips.

Completed Built-In Dressers

These DIY built-in Closet Organizers cost less than $300 total and completely changed the functionality of our space.

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DIY Rolling Umbrella Stand

DIY Rolling Outdoor Umbrella Stand

Recently, I have been doing a lot of renovations to our backyard but because we purchased a new build we are seriously lacking shade. I wanted to buy a movable umbrella stand so I didn’t have to lug a stationary umbrella stand around the yard. After doing some online research I discovered one thing–umbrella stands are super expensive! While on an impromptu shopping trip to Hobby Lobby, I found a really cool metal rolling laundry cart that was 75% off. I knew I had to buy it and turn it into a cool outdoor farmhouse umbrella stand. Follow me on my journey to the best budget friendly DIY Rolling Umbrella Stand.

Materials:

Materials for Umbrella Stand
Materials for Umbrella Stand
  1. Metal rolling cart or bucket: $20
  2. 5 Gallon Home Depot Bucket: $2.98
  3. 50 Lb bag of fast set concrete mix: $3.98
  4. 1″x24″ PVC Pipe: $2.34
  5. Duct Tape
  6. Filler
  7. Pea Gravel or decorative element
  8. Umbrella: $30
  9. Spray Paint (optional)

*I purchased all of my materials from Home Depot, except for the rolling cart which I purchased at Hobby Lobby. If you can’t find a cute metal laundry bucket on wheels, there are several metal buckets online you could purchase. If you find a bucket you love without wheels, you could always purchase small wheels at Home Depot and attach them to the bucket. 

Step 1:

Take the PVC pipe and completely Duct Tape one end of the pipe. The Duct Tape is added to the end of the PVC pipe to prevent cement from coming into the pipe while mixing. The PVC pipe will be what the umbrella is placed into so you want to ensure nothing will obstruct the umbrella pole from going into the pipe.

PVC Pipe Covered in Duct Tape- Go Longhorns!
PVC Pipe Covered in Duct Tape- Go Longhorns!

Step 2:

Take the Home Depot 5 gallon bucket and place it on a level surface. Place the PVC pipe duct tape down into the center of the bucket. Hold the PVC pipe in place while you add the entire bag of quick setting cement into the bucket.

PVC pipe in Home Depot bucket with quick setting cement
PVC pipe in Home Depot bucket with quick setting cement

Step 3:

Follow the directions on the bag of quick setting cement and add the appropriate amount of water into the Home Depot bucket. Once the water has been added, work quickly using a scrap piece of wood and stir the quick setting cement without disturbing the PVC pipe in the center. Mix until the cement is well incorporated. Let this set for several hours.

Quick set cement drying in bucket with PVC pipe in the center
Quick set cement drying in bucket with PVC pipe in the center

Step 4:

Once the cement is dry I took a can of black spray paint I had in the garage and used it to spray the PVC pipe black. I didn’t want the white PVC pipe to stand out like a sore thumb against the black umbrella base.

PVC Pipe set in the bucket painted black
PVC Pipe set in the bucket painted black

Step 5:

Place the Home Depot bucket inside of the rolling metal bin. Because I was adding pea gravel to the top of the metal bin for decoration, I had to add a lighter filler to the surrounding areas so the bucket would not be too heavy. I decided to cut up an old moving blanket I found in my garage and layer it inside the metal bin. I poured a thin layer of pea gravel on top of the moving blanket. Simply place your umbrella of choice into the PVC pipe and enjoy the shade!

DIY Rolling Outdoor Umbrella Stand
DIY Rolling Outdoor Umbrella Stand
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DIY Barn Door Shutters

Let’s face it window coverings can be expensive! We bought a new build and had to cover every window in the entire house (eeek!). I wanted a unique design element to set off our pretty bland living room. After several hours scouring Pinterest for ideas, I decided to build and install DIY barn door shutters on our living room windows.

We prioritized our spending and paid to have blackout shades put in all of our bedrooms. The remainder of our windows we left without shades for an entire year. I desperately wanted wooden shutters in our living room kitchen area but knew it was outside of the budget; which is why we ended up going the DIY barn door route. Follow my project and let me walk you through the steps I took to achieve this amazing look!

Materials:

  1. Barn Door Rails
  2. 1″x4″x8′ Pine Boards–Mounting Boards and shutter design (8 for the entire project)
  3. Paint
  4. Cordless Drill
  5. Miter Saw
  6. Nail Gun
  7. 1×6–6foot Common Wood Boards–for shutters (I used 21 for this project)
  8. Screws
  9. Caulk
Before Picture-DIY Barndoor Shutters
Before Picture-DIY Barndoor Shutters

Getting Started with Supplies:

The first thing I did was buy the rails for the windows.

There are three large windows in my living room; two windows on one wall and one window on the opposing wall. I needed three rails, one for each window. After checking online for the best price for a Barn Door Rail Systems, I found great rails for a great price on Amazon!

I bought three 6.6 foot barn door rails from U-Max for $39.99 each through Amazon. Similar rails sell at home improvement stores for around $150 each. The only downside to the U-Max rail systems is they are manufactured in another country so you will have to use a mounting board above each window to ensure the barn door is supported by wall studs.

After I ordered the barn door rails, I made a trip to Home Depot to buy wood for the mounting boards. Since I was building the barn door shutter from scratch, I wanted to install the rail systems prior to making the doors to ensure each window was fully covered.

I purchased three 1″x4″x8′ Pine boards from Home Depot. I already had white paint from my last project, Faux Built-In Fireplace with Shiplap, so I decided to use it on this project as well!

Attaching the Mounting Boards and Rails:

The first thing I did was cut the mounting boards down to 6 feet 8 inches using my miter saw. I cut the mounting boards down because I did not want there to be too much overhang on my mounting board for aesthetic purposes. Next, I painted each rail with my existing paint. Painting the mounting boards before you attach them to the wall just makes your life easier!

We found and marked all the studs on the wall above our windows with a stud finder. We held our mounting boards up on the wall and marked all of the stud locations onto the mounting boards. My husband pre drilled holes into the mounting board at the designated stud locations using his cordless drill. We used mounting screws and attached the mounting boards above each window with the screws. We used 4-5 screws per mounting board to ensure the rails were stable. Honestly, this was the hardest part of the project for my husband and I because we had never done this before. It was harder to find a stud above the windows because of the window framing. Nevertheless we prevailed and got them all up!

Mounting Boards-DIY Barn Door Shutters
Mounting Boards-DIY Barn Door Shutters

After we got all of the mounting boards up, we followed the directions for the rail systems and attached them to the mounting boards.

Rails Attached to Mounting Board-DIY Barn Door Shutters
Rails Attached to Mounting Board-DIY Barn Door Shutters

Building The Doors:

I chose to use 1×6-6 Foot Common Boards for this project because I wanted to save on cost. The cost of a 1×6-6 Foot Common Board is $4.33 per board. I used 21 1×6-6 Foot Common Boards to complete all three doors (7 boards per barn door shutter). Obviously the amount of boards you use will depend on the size of your window.

Common Board at Home Depot
Common Board at Home Depot

I went back and forth on whether I wanted to do an “X” or a “Z” for the design element on the front of the doors. Ultimately, I ended up going with a “Z” because it seemed like an easier design to execute.

I measured each window and determined the length of each barn door. Using my miter saw, I cut all 21 of my 6 feet Common Boards down to size.

I placed 7 common boards side by side on a flat surface making sure all the ends were in line.

I measured the width of each proposed barn door. Using my miter saw, I cut three of the 1″x4″x8′ Pine boards into two pieces to fit across the top and bottom of each barn door. I held a piece of the 1″x4″x8′ barn door in between the top and bottom pine boards on the barn door and marked my cut lines. Using the miter saw, I made 45 degree cuts on the top and bottom of each pine boards to form the “Z.”

After everything was lined up, I used the nail gun and attached the “Z” shape to each barn door.

“Z” shape on barn doors-DIY Barn Door Shutters
“Z” shape on barn doors-DIY Barn Door Shutters

Making the Doors Stable and Strong:

I flipped the barn doors over and attached a wood brace on the top and bottom of each barn door with the nail gun. Just to make sure the back braces were in place I attached two screws to each brace on each barn door. I used scrap wood I had left over for this because it is the back and will not be seen.

Caulked Seams-DIY Barn Door Shutters
Caulked Seams-DIY Barn Door Shutters

After the doors were built, I caulked the back seems where each wood piece met to help keep the light out. I also caulked the seams on the “Z” design.

Painted Front-DIY Barn Door Shutters
Painted Front-DIY Barn Door Shutters

After everything was dry, I painted both sides of the doors.

Painted Back-DIY Barn Door Shutters
Painted Back-DIY Barn Door Shutters

Hanging the Doors:

We held the finished doors up to the track and marked the location the rails needed to be attached to the barn doors.

Due to the fact we didn’t make the barn doors as thick as the rail system suggests, we added washers to the back of the rails when we attached them to the doors.

We simply lifted the door onto the tracks and it was ready to go.

This project had its ups and downs and ultimately took me longer than expected because I have two toddlers. However, this is one of the best additions we have done to the house by far. It gives our living room character and provides shade for a fraction of the cost of traditional window coverings.

My husband was a trooper through this project and I could not have done it without him. This is definitely a two person endeavor should you wish to build your own DIY barn door shutters.

We are already planning on building barn door shutters for our office window.

Complete Barn Door Shutters-DIY Barn Door Shutters
Complete Barn Door Shutters-DIY Barn Door Shutters
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Faux Built in Fireplace with Shiplap

Completed Faux built in Fireplace with Shiplap

When we purchased our house it did not come with a fireplace. Honestly, I never really noticed the missing fireplace until our first Christmas. I desperately wanted a fireplace for our next winter; however, I did not have the budget for a built in fireplace. I decided to tackle a faux built in fireplace with shiplap surround.

Living Room Wall Before
Living Room Wall Before

Our living room was kind of bland and boring. I reused the furniture from our previous house and it no longer matched the aesthetic of our new modern farmhouse. After convincing my husband we needed a change, I went in search of the perfect faux fireplace.

Fireplace

I went back and forth on whether I should purchase an electric fireplace or buy a vintage fireplace mantel and attach it to the wall. In the end, my husband really wanted something that provided a heat source, as minimal as it may be.

I did extensive online searches for electric fireplaces. The problem I ran into a lot when searching for electric fireplaces online is they were all too short and looked like fake electric fireplaces.

After several hours of online research I located the perfect faux fireplace. The Juri Electric Fireplace by Darby Home Co from Wayfair. This fireplace ticked all of the boxes; it was white, it was tall, and it put out heat. When I first found and fell in love with this fireplace it was being offered at $1,369.99. Sadly at that time it was out of my budget so I waited. I kept checking Wayfair for sales and discounts because I was not about to pay $1,369.99 for an electric fireplace. A few months ago the day finally came; Wayfair was having a huge sale on electric fireplaces. I purchased The Juri Electric Fireplace by Darby Home Co from Wayfair for $783.52.

Juri Electric Fireplace from www.wayfair.com

Wayfair provides great customer service. I received an email with my expected date of delivery for the fireplace. I wanted to make the fireplace look as built in as possible so I decided to create a shiplap wall behind the fireplace running all the way to the ceiling.

Shiplap on a Budget

The price of real shiplap at the box stores is astronomical. I found a great product at Home Depot for a fraction of the cost called 1/4″ x 8′ Knotty Pine Edge V Plank.

Knotty Pine Edge V Plank
Knotty Pine Edge V Plank

This product comes with 6 thin interlocking boards 8 feet in length. For my fireplace area I purchased 4 packs. It is important to measure your space and calculate the square footage you will need to cover prior to heading to Home Depot to purchase your boards.

I highly recommend this product because it is easy to work with and is inexpensive. If your budget allows you to go with a higher end shiplap or peel and stick shiplap go with whatever makes you comfortable.

Because I was framing the fireplace in shiplap and not coving the entire wall I bought a 1/4″ trim for the sides and top of my shiplap(the existing baseboards if you have them can act as the trim for the bottom). Once I had all of my materials it was time to get started on my shiplap wall before my fireplace arrived.

Materials

  • Tape
  • Nail Gun
  • Level
  • Measuring Tape
  • Pencil
  • Miter Saw
  • Shiplap Material
  • Edging Material
  • Ladder
  • Paint
  • Paintbrushes
  • Paintable Caulk

Preparing Materials:

I placed tape on the wall to mark the width of the fireplace. I attached one side of my 1/4′ trim to the outer edge of my tape using my nail gun and level. Once I had one of my trim pieces in place I started on the shiplap. It is important not to attach both trim pieces to the wall at the same time because you need space to interlock the shiplap.

I cut all of my shiplap wood down to my desired length using a miter saw. When installing shiplap I generally start at the top and work my way down to the bottom. However, for this project there was a wall bump out from the stairs in the middle of my desired shiplap location. I started applying shiplap from the bottom of the stair bump out down.

Applying my Shiplap from the stair bump out down
Applying my Shiplap from the stair bump out down

It is important to have help when you attach your first piece of shiplap to ensure the wood is being hung level.

Project helper for the Faux Fireplace
Project helper for the Faux Fireplace (just kidding my husband helped!)

Applying the Shiplap Planks

Place the first piece of shiplap flush against the wall. Use your level to ensure the shiplap is being hung on an even plane. Attach the shiplap to the wall using your nail gun. Once the first piece of shiplap is hung the project should move smoothly. Continue applying the shiplap down the length of your wall (after the first board is hung a level is no longer necessary).

I encountered an outlet plug during the installation of the shiplap. I simply cut the boards down to size to fit around the outlet plug using the miter saw.

Once all of the shiplap has been attached to the wall attach the remaining side trim and top trim to the wall using the nail gun. If there are small gaps in between your trim and your shiplap do not panic. Use paintable caulk to fill in the gaps and edges in the shiplap and trim.

Shiplap Wall with trim
Shiplap Wall with trim

Once the caulk has dried it is time to add paint. I used the same white washable paint I used in my Board and Batten or Bust project. I applied three coats of paint to the shiplap and trim.

Shiplap wall painted white
Shiplap wall painted white

Mounting the TV

There are some things I leave to the professionals. Mounting a television with hidden cords is outside of my comfort zone. I used Puls to mount my 70 inch television. Puls is great! They connect you with a professional in your area that will come out same day with a mount and hang your television. The total cost to have my television mounted with hidden cords was $300 and that included the mount. Well worth the money in my opinion!

Installing the Fireplace

After the fireplace came we assembled it and placed it in front of our completed shiplap wall. This is by far the best addition I have done to the house hands down. The fireplace completely changed our space and we could not be any happier. My husband loved it so much he wants to do the same thing in our bedroom!

Completed Faux built in Fireplace with Shiplap
Completed Faux built in Fireplace with Shiplap

Although this project was a little pricey it was worth every penny. I am loving every inch of our faux built in fireplace with shiplap.

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Pantry Renovation and Reorganization on a Budget

Completed Pantry renovation and reorganization!

I have been bitten by the Spring cleaning bug! Every time I enter my pantry the food clutter overwhelms me. The organization I had in place was not working and my pantry definitely needed a facelift. I decided to tackle a Pantry Renovation and Reorganization on a budget.

Pantry Before the Renovation and Reorganization.
Pantry Before the Renovation and Reorganization.

I not only wanted an astetically pleasing space but a space where I could clearly see all of my food items to make meal planning and preparation easier.

Picking the Perfect Peel and Stick Wallpaper

I have tackled peel and stick tile and have been longing to test out peel and stick wallpaper. Because my pantry was lacking character I knew peel and stick wallpaper would be perfect for this space.

Peel and stick wallpaper is sold at a variety of online stores; however, Target offers a wide variety of peel and stick wallpaper in store. Occasionally, you can even find a good selection of peel and stick wall paper in the sale aisle at Target. If you cannot find any peel and stick wallpaper in the sale aisle don’t worry because this product is relatively inexpensive and you can always use your Target Redcard for an extra 5 percent off!

After checking out all of the peel and stick wallpaper Target offered, I decided to go with a black and white buffalo plaid pattern because it fit with my modern farmhouse style.

I measured the pantry wall I would be applying the wallpaper to. After calculating the square feet, I determined I needed to buy three rolls of wallpaper.

Applying the Peel and Stick Wallpaper

Materials:

  • Peel and Stick Wallpaper
  • Credit card or wallpaper smoothing tool
  • X-acto knife
  • Measuring Tape
  • Level or yard stick

First, measure the length of the wall you will be applying your first section of wallpaper with your measuring tape.

Second, unroll your wallpaper roll and mark your first cut. Lay a yard stick or level across the wallpaper and use an X-acto knife to cut the wallpaper evenly.

Measure wallpaper and cut using X-acto knife and yardstick!
Measure wallpaper and cut using X-acto knife and yardstick!

Third, remove the wallpaper from the paper backing. Line the wallpaper up at the top of the wall and work your way down. If the wallpaper is not lining up properly simply remove it from the wall and realign it. The best thing about this product is it can be removed and reapplied to the wall without causing damage. Use a credit card or wallpaper smoothing tool to remove all of the bubbles from the wallpaper.

Repeat the process above until the entire area is covered. Be aware if you are using a pattern you have to line up your pattern appropriately for a cohesive look. Keep your pattern in mind while you are cutting your wallpaper sections.

I like to come in and clean up the edges of my wallpaper with the X-acto knife.

Pantry Storage

I decided to put all of our snacks in easy to access pourable storage containers because I have toddlers and snack accessibility is key to not losing your mind.

I found great budget friendly BPA free plastic pourable storage containers at Walmart. The large Mainstays storage containers come in a 2 pack for $9.98. The smaller Mainstays storage containers are sold individually for $3.98.

I purchased 3 Large 2 pack storage containers and 8 small storage containers.

Walmart had large white storage tubs for $2.98 each. I picked up three white storage tubs for miscellaneous pantry items.

Pantry Renovation and reorganization on a budget!
Pantry Renovation and reorganization on a budget-Storage Containers!

I found 8 cloth storage containers at the Dollar Tree for all of my baking and canned pantry items. While Dollar Tree does have plastic food storage containers, I decided to go with Walmart’s slightly more expensive containers because they are BPA free and larger.

Completed Pantry renovation and reorganization!
Completed Pantry renovation and reorganization!

I now have a fabulously beautiful pantry with easy access snacks! This pantry renovation and reorganization is easy on the eyes and the budget!

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DIY No Sew Curtain

DIY no sew curtain!

I recently completed a peel and stick tile accent wall in my laundry room. While I love my tiled wall, I was not thrilled with the exposed pipes and tubes you can see coming from my washing machines. I decided to make a DIY no sew curtain to hide the ugly piping.

Peel and Stick tile wall with ugly exposed pipes!
Peel and Stick tile wall with ugly exposed pipes!

Materials

  • Fabric
  • Stitch Witchery
  • Foam Mounting Tape
  • Scissors
  • Iron

The first and hardest step in the process is deciding on which fabric to use for your DIY no sew curtains. There are several great stores that offer a wide variety of fabric options at great prices. Hobby Lobby , Joann Fabric , and Walmart are some of my go to locations for fabric. However, Hobby Lobby is generally the store I end up in because of all the great products and deals they have.

I knew I wanted a fabric that fit my homes modern country theme. After measuring my space, I made my way down to Hobby Lobby. I found a black and white buffalo plaid fabric that was $6 a yard. Hobby Lobby was running a special and providing 30 % off all fabric so I got my 2 yards of fabric for $8.40. If Hobby Lobby is not running a sale on an item you like don’t panic! Hobby Lobby always has an online coupon for 40% off one item.

Fabric, Witch Stitchery, and Foam Mounting Tape
Fabric, Stitch Witchery, and Foam Mounting Tape

While at Hobby Lobby, I picked up a 20 yard roll of Stitch Witchery ($3.69) and a roll of Scotch Foam Mounting Tape ($2.40 with the application of the 40% off coupon).

Creating the DIY No Sew Curtain

First, cut your fabric down to the size you want it to be. I left an extra inch of fabric along each end so that I could attach my Stitch Witchery and make a clean edge with my fabric pattern.

Next, preheat your iron to the wool setting. Fold the first end of your fabric under to create a clean line. Cut a piece of Stitch Witchery to fit the length of your first fabric end. Sandwich the piece of Stitch Witchery in-between your folded fabric piece. Place the iron on the outside of the fabric and hold in 10 second increments along the length of the Stitch Witchery. Do not move the iron around, simply press and hold because you do not want the fabric or the Stitch Witchery to shift.

Folded Fabric with Witch Stitchery sandwiched between.
Folded Fabric with Stitch Witchery sandwiched between.

Flip the fabric over and press and hold the iron to the other side of the fabric containing the Stitch Witchery in 10 second increments.

Other side of the fabric edge with the Witch Stitchery sandwiched in-between.
Other side of the fabric edge with the Stitch Witchery sandwiched in-between.

Lastly, make sure the Stitch Witchery has bonded before moving on to your next edge. Repeat the above listed steps for the remaining 3 fabric edges.

That is it! In no time at all your DIY No Sew Curtain is complete. Seriously, this project could not be any simpler.

Hanging the Curtain

No drilling was needed to hang this curtain because I utilized the shelf above my washing machine to hang it. I placed a strip of Scotch Foam Mounting Tape along the edge of my existing shelf.

Foam Mounting Tape adhered along the shelf edge.
Foam Mounting Tape adhered along the shelf edge.

I lined up my curtain along the shelf and pressed it into the Scotch Foam Mounting Tape. The curtain adhered to the Foam Mounting Tape easily.

Curtain adhered to the shelf edge with the foam mounting tape. It is complete!
Curtain adhered to the shelf edge with the foam mounting tape. It is complete!

Leftover Fabric?

I had some left over fabric and Stitch Witchery from this project so I decided to use it to make a table runner. Utilizing the same step process as the DIY No Sew Curtain, I completed a table runner that matches my new curtain at no additional cost.

Table Runner
Table Runner
Table Runner
Table Runner

For less than $15 I made a beautiful curtain and a table runner, giving my modern farmhouse the extra character it needed. This is a fun an easy project that will not break the bank.

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Easy Dyed Easter Eggs with Shaving Cream

Easy Dyed Easter Eggs with Shaving Cream

I hate those store bought messy easter Dye packs. After trying several things, I found the solution. Follow me as I guide you through my Easy Dyed Easter Eggs with Shaving Cream.

Shaving Cream, Food Coloring, Eggs!

Materials for Easy Dyed Easter Eggs with Shaving Cream:

  • Shaving Cream: I used Barbasol because it was the cheapest. However, any brand will do as long as it is not gel.
  • Food Coloring/Dye: I had generic food coloring in my pantry but if you want a more vibrant color use gel food coloring.
  • Eggs
  • Pan
  • Toothpicks
  • Rubber Gloves (optional)

Get the perfect Hard Boil on Your Egg

I have tried a variety of different recipes and tricks to get the perfect hard boiled egg. Vinegar, salt, cooking them for 10 minutes at a rapid boil and letting them sit…you name it I have tried it. The best and easiest way I have found to hard boil and egg is with an egg cooker.

Dash Egg Cooker

While this might seem like an extravagant gadget to have in the kitchen, we use this almost every day and the best part is it is budget friendly! We own a Dash egg cooker, which only set us back $7.00 at TJ MAXX. While I do recommend investing in an egg cooker for your daily morning egg, if you don’t have one simply hard boil your eggs.

Once the eggs have been hard boiled, set
them aside and let them cool. Make sure
the eggs are cooled completely before you head onto the next step.

Dying The Eggs

Pie Dish filled with shaving cream for the start of the Shaving Cream Dyed Eggs
Pie Dish filled with shaving cream for the start of the Shaving Cream Dyed Eggs

I used a pie dish to Dye the eggs in but any pan would do. I filled my pie dish with shaving cream. Make sure the shaving cream is approximately 1 inch in thickness throughout the dish.

Here is your chance to get creative. Drop in the food coloring in whatever color you choose one drop at a time. Make sure you cover the entire pan with food coloring.

Food Coloring Drops added to the shaving cream for the start of the Easy Shaving Cream Dyed Egg
Food Coloring Drops added to the shaving cream for the start of the Easy Shaving Cream Dyed Egg

I used a toothpick to swirl the food coloring around in the shaving cream. Swirling the food coloring through the shaving cream gives the eggs a cool marbling effect.

Swirl the Food Coloring with a Toothpick to create an Easy Shaving Cream Dyed Easter Egg
Swirl the Food Coloring with a Toothpick to create an Easy Shaving Cream Dyed Easter Egg

Once the food coloring has been swirled, I put on my rubber gloves. While I prefer to use rubber gloves while dying eggs it is not necessary. The food coloring washes off pretty easily nonetheless I still like to wear gloves to limit the mess as much as possible.

Next, Drop your eggs in the food coloring one at a time and roll them around until they are completely covered in the shaving cream mixture. Leave each covered egg inside of the pan for at least 30 minutes.

Easy Dyed Easter Eggs in Shaving Cream resting for 30 minutes.
Easy Dyed Easter Eggs in Shaving Cream resting for 30 minutes.

Once the eggs have had a chance to sit, rinse the shaving cream and dye off each egg under cool water. Gently pat the eggs dry.

Finished Product: Easy Dyed Easter Eggs with Shaving Cream
Finished Product: Easy Dyed Easter Eggs with Shaving Cream

The Project is Complete!

There you have it! In no time at all you have a perfectly dyed Easter egg with hardly any stress or mess. This project is great for kids of any age; however, I know for a fact it is a hit with the two toddlers in my house. Shaving cream is right up there with play dough and slime in our house. If you need more great Easter Ideas check out my blog post on a cute Easter Porch Sign.

 

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Easy DIY Easter Front Porch Sign

I love holidays and Easter is definitely one of my favorites! I change my front porch decor for each major holiday. One of the easiest ways to jazz up your front porch is with a front porch sign. In this post I will guide you through building an Easy DIY Easter front porch sign.

Materials:

Building the Sign Base

The Natural Barnwood Bundle from Hobby Lobby comes with 6 pieces of barnwood. For this project I used the entire bundle. I started by placing 5 pieces of the barnwood side by side.

5 pieces of barn wood side by side with two 6 inch pieces

I cut down the last piece of wood into two 6 inch pieces with a miter saw.

I placed one of the 6 inch pieces of barnwood horizontally across the top of the 5 pieces of barnwood that I had previously laid out. I placed the second 6 inch piece of barnwood horizontally across the bottom of the 5 pieces of barnwood. Using my nail gun, I nailed both of the 6 inch pieces into each piece of barnwood adhering the sign together.

6 inch pieces attached to the barnwood creating the sign

This sign base can be used to make a variety of signs for a variety of holidays or events. Any wood you have access to can easily be used to make a sign base in any desired shape or size.

Decorating the Sign

Now that everything has been built, it is time to decorate! I used my Cricut to create a picture of a bunny with the saying “Hoppy Easter.”

Bunny Image Cricut Design Space

Cricut Bunny Link:

https://design.cricut.com/#/design/138318599/user-project/138318599

There is a lot of debate whether cardstock or vinyl is best for painting signs. Personally, I like using cardstock because it is easy to handle and is less expensive but either material will work. I cut the image out onto cardstock.

I attached the bunny and letters onto the wood sign with tape.

Cardstock bunny cutout
Acrylic paint, pouncers, tape

I used a cream color acrylic paint to paint the bunny. I used a gold acrylic paint to paint the letters. Usually, I buy my paint from Michaels or Hobby Lobby. Any paint brush can be used for this project. I personally like to use foam pouncers because it does not collect as much paint as a generic paint brush. For this project I used Martha Stewart Foam Pouncers.

Once the sign has dried, glue 6 cotton balls to the sign to represent the bunnies tail.

Cottonball Bunny Butt

The sign is complete. In less than an hour you can have a great and easy DIY Easter front porch sign for half the price of the signs you can find in stores!

Finished Sign- All ready for the porch!
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DIY Peel and Stick Subway Tile

My laundry room is small and pretty one note design wise….boring! I spent several hours searching Pinterest for laundry room ideas and decided I wanted to do a subway tile accent wall behind the washer and dryer. Then came the real problem: 1. I don’t know how to lay tile 2. The cost of the tile, materials, and labor would end up being way out of my budget.

There are great peel and stick wall paper options these days so I turned my online search focus towards that thinking I could still do an accent wall behind the washer and dryer. While searching for a great peel and stick wall paper product, I came across DIY peel and stick subway tile. DIY Peel and stick subway tile? This must be too good to be true. I read countless reviews on the peel and stick tile and decided to order the product and give it a go. Worse case scenario, I would remove the tile and paint the wall.

Picking the Right Tile

There are several brands of peel and stick tile on the market with various tile options. I knew I wanted to do a white subway tile with grey grout. I found a DIY peel and stick subway tile I loved from Tic Tac Tiles on Amazon; for $33.97 you get 10 12×12 tile sheets. After measuring the space above my washer and dryer I determined I needed 3 packages of tile.

Shop around and find the best deal. While you can order direct from the manufacturer, I am an Amazon Prime member so the price and the shipping options were better for me through Amazon.

Prepping Your Space

DIY Peel and stick tile can be used in a variety of places including the kitchen. The peel and stick tile can be placed over existing outdated kitchen backsplash, this is a great option if you want to update your kitchen but aren’t able to afford to fully redesign the space. This product is not recommended for bathrooms due to the water and condensation.

The surface you place your tile on must be given a good wipe down and allowed to dry prior to installation. The area/room you are placing your tile cannot be too cold or too hot during installation or the product will not adhere correctly. Make sure the temperature is around 70 degrees if possible to avoid any adhesive issues.

This was my wall before I began the tiling process

Laying the DIY Peel and Stick Tile

Laying the peel and stick tile is simple and can be done by one person. The directions in the package are pretty straight forward and helpful.

Like most walls, my wall was very uneven. I decided to start my project from the most level location, the bottom, and work my way up. Make sure the first row of tiles are placed in a level line, or as level as possible. To ensure the tiles are level, use a large level to guide your progress for the first row of tiles. After the first row of tile is in place you simply piece the remaining sheets together like a puzzle.

You might have to cut your tile down in places to make it fit and look proper on the wall. Oddly enough, scissors were the easiest tool for me to use to make my cuts. I tried a box cutter but it was a lot harder for me to use. Make sure you measure and mark your tile prior to cutting them down to ensure you do not cut off too much of the material.

I smoothed down my tile as I adhered it to the wall with a wall paper smoothing tool. Make sure you press all of the bubbles and creases out of the tile as you go.

Finishing the Design

It took me approximately 3 hours to complete the tiling process in my laundry room. I found a cute affordable laundry room sign for the tile wall at Michaels. The Wash/Dry sign was on sale for $30 and I got an additional 20 percent off by using a promo code. Michaels always has great discounts, promo codes, and coupons; make sure you check all of their deals online before buying!

I hung the Wash/Dry sign after the tile had been adhered to the wall for approximately 2 weeks. I placed the picture hanger through the peel and stick tile with no issues or damage to the tile itself.

All in all I am very happy with the way my project turned out. The total cost of this project was $101.91. If you want the look of tile without the cost and hassle, definitely consider trying peel and stick tile you will not be disappointed.

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Easy DIY Blanket Ladder

Finished Easy DIY Blanket Ladder

I love my farmhouse and love filling it with great farmhouse inspired decor. I fell in love with a blanket ladder at Target, but sadly it was outside of the budget. As I stood there staring at it longingly, I thought I could probably make a version of it myself for a lot less money. Follow me on my journey to make the best DIY Blanket Ladder!

Getting the Perfect Wood

I went home and took an inventory of my wood supply. I find tons of free lumber and scrap wood through my neighborhood Facebook groups. A few months ago, I acquired 6 intact wood shutters from the exterior of an old house for free. The shutters were brown on one side and green on the other side. I went back and forth over whether to keep the paint on the wood shutters or strip the paint completely and add a stain to the wood. I decided to leave the paint on the shutters and sand it down in places to give it a rustic farmhouse look. However, if you don’t have any scrap wood you can buy your wood of choice from Home Depot, I would recommend buying furring strips because they are the best bang for your buck, but any wood will do.

Shutter I used to create the blanket ladder-I had to remove some exposed nails prior to cutting!

Materials/Supplies:

  • scrap wood or furring strips (I used three 6 ft long boards)
  • miter saw
  • nail gun
  • hand sander/sand paper
  • wood stain of your choice
  • measuring tape
  • pencil

Cutting and Preparing the Wood

Before you begin, decide on the height you want your ladder to be. I chose to make my ladder 50 inches tall. Using the pencil and measuring tape, I took two pieces of wood from one of my shutters and marked off 50 inches on each piece.

I chose to add 4 ladder rungs to my ladder; you can add as many or as little ladder rungs as you like depending on the height of your ladder. I took a third piece of wood from my shutter and marked off 4 separate 1 foot long pieces with my pencil and measuring tape, these would become my rungs.

After I had all of my wood pieces marked I proceeded to make my cuts. I wanted the bottom of my ladder to sit nearly flush with the floor while the top half rested against the wall. I set my miter saw to a 15 degree angle. I cut the marked ends of both of my wood pieces using the 15 degree angle cut on the miter saw. I set my two base pieces to the side.

I set my miter saw angle back to zero so I could cut all of my ladder rungs. I cut the 4 ladder rungs along the lines I had marked earlier, each rung should be 1 foot in length.

Sanding and Staining

I chose to sand down the existing paint on my repurposed wood using a corded hand sander. The corded hand sander made the project go a lot faster, however, if you don’t have a corded hand sander you can use regular sand paper. If you are using wood without paint no sanding is needed.

I added a layer of gray wood stain to my sanded wood to give it a rustic aged look. There are a variety of wood stains and colors, pick the stain that is right for your style.

Assembling the Ladder

After the stain dried completely on my ladder bases and rungs, I began the assembly process. I measured and marked the location I wanted each rung to be placed on the ladder on both ladder bases. The markings on the ladder bases should be exactly the same.

I placed the ladder bases on the ground parallel to each other. I placed each ladder rung in between the ladder bases in the pre-marked locations. I angled the first ladder rung towards the ground. Using my nail gun, I placed four nails on the outside of each ladder base into the ladder rung (eight nails per ladder rung). I continued angling the remaining ladder rungs towards the ground and attached them to the ladder base as indicated above.

Finished Blanket Ladder

Finishing Touches

I did not patch the nail holes on my ladder. I went with a rustic farmhouse ladder and thought the nail holes gave it some character. However, if you want to patch the nail holes you can always fill the holes with wood filler and sand it down prior to staining.

I added a thick felt adhesive to the back of the ladder that would be resting against the wall to prevent the wall from becoming damaged. Buy the felt adhesive I used for this project using the link below.

 

Everbilt Heavy Duty Felt I used for the back of the ladder.

I placed the ladder directly into my living room and added various blankets. That is it! This is a super simple budget friendly DIY project that only took a couple of hours to complete. Time to get out there and start building!